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Edgartown

ferry1Probably one of the least romanticized aspects of Martha’s Vineyard is the Steamship Authority‘s ferry service.  It’s old.  It’s stodgy.  It’s even smelly on occasion.  People may make disparaging comments about the boats or the service or the crowds, but I’ll have none of it.  Think of me what you will, but I like the ferry.  It’s the people’s option.

The best part about taking the ferry is the separation that it provides from the land-locked life.  When I’m riding on the ferry, traversing Vineyard Sound to the Island, I can feel the anxiety and stress falling from me as if an oversized knapsack has been loosed from my back after a long, arduous hike.  As I anticipate a stay on the Island, my shoulders seem to rise an inch or two from the sheer relief of burdens picked up on the mainland.  I need that time of adjustment.

If there were a bridge or tunnel to the Vineyard, as some souvenir car stickers would have you believe, I would still take the boat.  I like the physical and emotional transition that it affords.  That’s why, when taking the car on the ferry, it’s best to get out and spend the crossing time topside.  Getting into the car and not getting out until you are on the Island has the same effect as driving over a bridge.  You just don’t get the break you need to start a real vacation.

Ferry-by-takomabibelot (1)Today there are two primary steamships making the voyage from Woods Hole, mypreferred point of departure: the three-year-old “M/V Island Home” and the venerable (by comparison) “M/V Martha’s Vineyard”.  (There is also a set of freighter ships, but I prefer to stay with the passenger vessels.  Even I have my limits!)  My preference is for the bi-directional newer ship.  It doesn’t need to turn around upon MV arrival as the older boat does.  Thus, I can set my feet on Island soil that much sooner.

The Steamship is reliable and consistent.  It runs year round and only the harshest of weather keeps it from its appointed rounds.  Its persistence accounts for some exciting happenings.  I recall a particularly rough crossing, during which one courageous soul insisted on sitting on the outside deck of the ferry.  As he sat alone  (no one else was foolhardy enough to venture outside on this passage) reading his newspaper, a rogue wave came over the front of the ship, engulfing him in bone-chilling salt water.  He came back inside, humbled, wiser, and soaked to the marrow.

I don’t mean to disparage the obvious benefits of the alternative means of transport.  The “Island Queen”, a passenger-only vessel that takes its patrons from Falmouth Harbor to Oak Bluffs Harbor, is fast and convenient, with far less hectic departures and arrivals.  From the other side of Falmouth Harbor, the quaint “Pied Piper” will drop you off right in downtown Edgartown.  (How cool is that?)  I won’t touch on the relative merits of the air routes to the Vineyard.  That discussion is left for the more affluent among us.

All things considered, however, I prefer the pace, tradition, and yes, the price of the Steamship Authority option.  Truth be told, anything that gets me to the Vineyard is appreciated!  In this case, because of the delights of the destination, getting there is not nearly half the fun!

Explore Downtown Edgartown on Your Martha’s Vineyard Escape
Look at That: What to See in Martha’s Vineyard
Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown

BluefishWe’ve talked before about what a great community we are part of here on Martha’s Vineyard, so it’s time for you to get to know our neighbors.  If you are not familiar with our location here at the Colonial Inn, we are right smack dab in the thick of downtown Edgartown.  Now, don’t panic if you are planning a stay with us, the thick of downtown is still peaceful and relaxing, afterall, it IS Martha’s Vineyard!

One of the stores in the neighborhood that I can’t resist in Bluefish Coastal Boutique.  Owners Danielle Mann and Amy Padalino-Heil are cousins who share a love of the ocean, nature, good living and fun.  These passions are reflected in the wonderful collection of island-themed gifts, home goods, clothing, stationary, toys, and beach & boating necessities for everyone on the island, tourists and locals, young and old.

My love of this store starts with the great items for your home.  As I write this I am actually curled up on my sofa, supported by a beautiful handmade pillow I got there this summer and covered in my favorite navy and white marine striped knit blanket that I treated myself to 2 summers ago.  I have sets of their juice and water glasses in fun Bluefish patterns and I’ve lost count of the great scented candles and other home accessories I’ve bought for myself and as gifts for my friends.

Then there’s their bags and purses – oh, the purses!  Baggallini is a world famous line of durable and fashionable purses, handbags and travel accessories which Bluefish proudly carry and use – I know both the ladies tote their own Baggallini’s.  They also carry some other great lines – I’ve been stopped in the street more than once and asked where I got my beautiful Madagascar Seagrass summer purse – Bluefish of course! And don’t forget the great bath and body lines, clothing and one of a kind pieces by Island artists.  All this, and fun desk accessories for girls of all ages in the shape of Bluefish notepads, pens and fun little bits and bobs for less than the price of a latte.

 

Clothing BluefishNow all this sounds great but I haven’t gotten to the best part. On many levels I am a sterotypical Scottish Lass and the strongest stereotype I fulfill is my frugality.  I like to get good value for money and that is the best part of the Bluefish collection – Everything in the store is hand selected by Danielle and Amy to provide the best possible quality without the huge ‘Martha’s Vineyard Boutique’ pricetags you might be anticipating.  The glasses go through the dishwasher every day and after 2 years of continuous use, the patterns are still bright and unscratched.  I couldn’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve washed this blanket (I’m a spiller by nature) and the colors are just as bright and the blanket is the same size as the day I bought it.

Oh, and did I mention the fun? What other store that sells glassware will actively encourage the kids to pick up that glitter filled bouncy ball from the basket and test it out? Or have bubble makers and coloring books on hand to entertain the younger members of the family while the older members browse?

If you haven’t made it to Bluefish yet, I hope you will next time you on Martha’s Vineyard but to check them out straight away, go to their website and pick up a little something.  This great store is also a great world community member – right now they are donating 30% from online sales to the Red Cross Haiti Relief appeal so help them help others, you won’t be disappointed!

 

Explore Downtown Edgartown on Your Martha’s Vineyard Escape
Look at That: What to See in Martha’s Vineyard
Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown

Harbor1As Lane touched on in our last post, Martha’s Vineyard is a very different place in winter than the beloved Island that most of you see only in it’s glorious summer colors.  This morning, I walked up to the top of the Edgartown Residence Club wing of the building, as I do most days, and took a few minutes to look out on the Edgartown Harbor.  I make a point of seeing the water at some point every day.  Even if it is from the window.  It’s my version of the wonderful movie line that goes, “It’s only an Island if you look at it from the water” (and I’m sure there are many Amity lovers who know that movie).

You see, the harbor is the pulse by which I measure the seasons.  The ebb and flow of the tide is mirrored in the traffic patterns each season.  As you can see from my photo, the sun is shining down on an almost empty harbor today.  There are one or two lonely boats, bobbing on their moorings but otherwise, a deserted stretch of chilly water greets me.  This isn’t the case every day in winter though.  It’s Sunday today, so I’m missing the early morning rush of scallopers heading out to harvest their daily bushels and bring them back for shucking.  If you have never tasted an Edgartown Bay Scallop fresh from the shell, then I swear you are missing one of the most amazing taste sensations in the world!  Sweet and velvety, they are a treat to behold and worth a special visit during Bay scallop season which usually starts in mid November.  I am lucky enough to have a few scalloper friends who make sure I am well stocked and a chef husband who lovingly prepares them in the simplest ways to let their flavors shine.

Every spring I watch as slowly but surely, the harbor once again fills up, until there are rows of neatly moored boats of all shapes and sizes enjoying all that life in this bustling summer town has to offer.  I know summer is here when I see the Edgartown Yacht Club moor its pontoons for the kids sailing programs, then watch as all those little sails bob precariously in and out of the other boats while the children learn skills that I dream of having time to learn one summer!  Huge and luxurious yachts become a talking point, “Did you see the one with the heli-pad?”, “There’s one with guards at the end of the dock – who owns that one?”. Charter fishing boats take hopeful groups on high seas adventures, and the harbor launch works overtime shuttling people and their purchases back and forth to their chosen vessel.

Then the exodus begins.  The pontoons are dismantled and stored away ’til next year, the families with kids and dogs in life preservers are fewer and there’s a bit of a lull in harbor activity for a couple of weeks. Then mid September hits and brings with it the biggest event of the Edgartown Harbor calendar – The Martha’s Vineyard Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby The dates for this year’s event were just announced, so grab your favorite fisherman/woman and make some plans!  You can even take advantage of the Book Early and Save promotion at the Colonial Inn.

So, the harbor life continues, the fishing boats are pulled out of the water for the winter, the harbor empties and then, here we are again with a deserted harbor and bay scallops.  I love to watch this cycle every year, mostly because I know that the next step brings another part of life on the Vineyard to look forward to.  If you want to keep an eye on this cycle, check out our webcam, overlooking Edgartown harbor to see what’s going on while you’re gone.

 

Explore Downtown Edgartown on Your Martha’s Vineyard Escape
Look at That: What to See in Martha’s Vineyard
Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown

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It is the Holiday Season again, and with Thanksgiving behind us, the next big event on Martha’s Vineyard is “Christmas in Edgartown”.

Let me say up front that I am…less than enthusiastic, shall we say…of the Christmas season. I have an incredible dislike of commercial jingles, (did they start in mid-October this year? Curses…), smarmy holiday TV specials infuriate me and flamboyant decorating drives me nuts. I like a holiday of quiet reflection in keeping with my faith; I enjoy quality time with family without all the madness of shopping and messages of greed that assault us. I never achieve this, so I become a GrinchTM.

I know where this comes from. My mother is a very religious woman and every year, she vows to organize herself with her holiday crafts and gift ideas well beforetime and every year plans more than she can possibly accomplish. She wants so much to have a quiet holiday that every misstep in the schedule causes frustration and anxiety. Therefore, she cancels it.

From when I was maybe eight or nine years old until…well…two or three years ago, actually, my Mom cancels Christmas. All of Christmas, mind you. No half measures here. Dinners, cookies, trees lights, gifts…you name it, she’s done with it. This starts anywhere from the end of September and last until two days before Christmas. We always HAVE Christmas, but the three months of ranting cancellations have perpetually dampened my Holiday Cheer.

Genetically, I tend toward this pattern, but I have an almost two-year old girl-baby. She loves Christmas. The photo shows her at the Wharf Pub last year at the Breakfast with Santa event. She doesn’t look very enthused about it, but THIS year…well, from talking with her, she’s ready this time. (Video evidence of this years trip to the Christmas Loft store tends to make me doubt this claim…but we will see!)

(If your browser won’t display this video, click here to open a new window.)

Kate’s enthusiasm for Christmas this year and participating in last Christmas in Edgartown events last year are slowly chipping away at my Fortress of Grinchitude.

Edgartown is beautiful in so many ways, throughout the entire year, but during the ‘Christmas’ weekend December 11th – 13th, the town becomes truly magical.

The Edgartown Board of Trade organizes the weekends schedule the weekend, and posts aCalendar of Events. So many Inns and shops participate that there are very few places where there is no sparkly-wonderment to be found.

The excitement for that weekend is evident. Reservations requests for available Suites to rent for that weekend have been coming for months. The Edgartown Residence Club is participating in the Inns of Edgartown Tour on Friday and Saturday from 2-4PM.

From the lighting of the Edgartown Lighthouse to hayrides from Main Street to the end of Water Street, there are free events that are great fun for all ages. (Even I enjoyed seeing Santa cruise into town on a fire engine during the Saturday morning parade down Main Street.)

Several events, like the Felix Neck gingerbread cookie decorating or Donaroma’s wreath making workshop, have a fee charged for the cost of the materials.

Some events have entry fees that support the organization’s event. The Minniesinger’s concerts on Friday and Saturday are a longstanding tradition on the island, and the kids put a lot of hard work into each production. A Holiday Soiree at the Daniel Fisher House benefits the Martha’s Vineyard Preservation Trust.

For those of you who are bold advocates of a particular charitable organization now is your chance to call the shots! All you have to do is win the 4th Annual Cookie Tasting event at Espresso Love. The event proceeds go to the winner’s choice.

The Dickens Village display at the Point Way Inn from 11AM to 5PM and the Faith Community Church’s Live Nativity on the steps of the Old Whaling Church on Saturday will immerse passersby in scenes of Christmas tradition.

There is too much going on that weekend to pass it by.

My GrinchyTM heart may not end up two sizes too small that weekend.

 

Explore Downtown Edgartown on Your Martha’s Vineyard Escape
Look at That: What to See in Martha’s Vineyard
Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown
Grass-by-Sporkist
Grass by Sporkist

Fall is the opposite of spring. Nowhere have I seen the contrast of the two as obvious as on Martha’s Vineyard. In April, we see a world coming slowly and ambitiously to life. I’m not just talking about the overnight sensation of your brown lawn suddenly showing little patches of lime green.  I liken what happens here to ants coming back out of the ground. Suddenly, workmen on ladders are taking plywood down from windows and sprucing up storefronts, and shopkeepers are dusting and sweeping and carting in new merchandise. Seasonal homeowners, fed up with winter, venture back to open up musty houses in hopes that it will hasten the advent of summer. And if we’re lucky enough to get some sunny weekends, brave souls in shorts, but still wearing layers of sweatshirts, descend on the towns to get a jump on the new season. Those of us who live here have fun taking note of the local merchants who move to new venues, thinking the change will bring them a better season than the last. The most positive sign that things are on the upswing is the first time the ferry pulls into Oak Bluffs since last fall. Hope is definitely in the air.

Ah, but I am a fall person. I’ve never bought the theory that it’s a time when everything dies or goes to sleep. There’s a tingle in the air that makes this time of year at least as promising as spring. If you’ve read my previous blogs, you know how I feel about the colors of fall, the long shadows, and the unique quality of the light of October and November. Driving my daily commute from Oak Bluffs to Edgartown, I can barely keep my eyes on the road the marsh grasses on the pond are such a delicious palette of ochres, rusts, greens, and lavenders. And the road, as it takes you toward the Triangle is dappled with sunlight filtering through the tunnel of the tree limbs overhead. You have to beware of deer, fooled by the autumn light into thinking it’s evening, running out in front of you here.

The whole experience is spring in reverse. One by one, we watch the seasonal stores and restaurants locking their doors and posting, “Thank you for a great season” signs in their windows. Now is the time to take advantage of fabulous sales. No department stores with specially brought in sale merchandise here. What you get is dramatically marked down prices on all the unique items you were eyeing in August. Bring your holiday gift list.

You’ll find that activities and entertainment don’t disappear when we roll up the beaches. In fact, there is no better time than an autumn day for a long walk on a beach that was closed to all but town residents in the summer. We still have theater right through the holidays. We have concerts and dance parties, complete with pre-party lessons. Nature walks and kayaking are breathtaking events. Restaurants have specials and two-for-one nights (more on those specials soon). And local bay scallops are in season!

Where we island people made note of location changes in the spring, we now take joy in counting the restaurants that are staying open for the off season. This year, there are several special new ones;  State Road in West Tisbury, Deon’s in Oak Bluffs, The Atlanticin Edgartown, and The Mediterranean in its new Oak Bluffs location. Come enjoy dining with the locals who venture out to dine after the throngs have dispersed. You’ll find some of us may be a bit quirky, but in general, we’re a very nice lot and enjoy talking to the visitors who, like us, appreciate our island at this special time of year.

 

Explore Downtown Edgartown on Your Martha’s Vineyard Escape
Look at That: What to See in Martha’s Vineyard
Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown