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Edgartown

sleepy-child

This article is not about something to do or see on the Island. I have no secret places to recommend, no hot spots that are ‘the place to be this week’. It is concerning a moment of crazy, random happenstance, an act of kindness from unseen strangers.

We are still in the experimental stages of crib to ‘big girl bed’ transfer with my daughter, Katerina, which means that every bedtime is a unique array of settling-down rituals. Like a sunset, no two bedtimes are alike. There are nights that she tumbles like a sack of potatoes into the bed and passes out instantly; and somewhere the attempts to get her to sleep rapidly approach ‘rigmarole’ levels: all singing, all dancing entertainment to no avail.

Sunday night, August 16th was such a night, with a dose of teething crabbies thrown in, just so I didn’t get too bored, apparently. She rolled and flopped, cried and called for momma, ignored my singing of ‘You are my Sunshine’ (which was, if I may say, not too shabby!) and finally ended up knocking herself in the head against the rail o’ protection.

I bit back what would be a useless ‘I told you so’ and scooped her up to soothe her. The shrieks drew momma back into the room and my wife and I BOTH sang to her while they sat in a chair near the window.

Then, from the street below, we heard voices.

We always hear people coming and going through the Edgartown downtown from our second floor window. Many times, it’s drunken revelers, or bands of running teens after a movie lets out, sometimes just the talk of folk passing by the windows of shops below.

This was different. A group of women was singing on the porch below us. Four or possibly five voices were singing ‘You are my Sunshine’. In harmony, even! I assume they heard the wailing of an anguished toddler and our desperate singing and were inspired.

My wife opened the window to listen to the song and my Little Fusspot, with a wide-eyed smile poked her face against the window frame and looked to the sidewalk. We could not see the chorus due to the awning below, but she still turned back to us and pointed. “Happys singing down there,” she said several times. During the rest of the song we could hear Katerina chuckling out the window. She called out a ‘Thank you’ or two, but I don’t think they heard us. A taxi appeared and they were gone. It calmed Kate right back into her bed and a sound sleep, tears forgotten and it was all we talked about the next day.

Anyone who lives and works on the Island during ‘the Season’ can tell you tales of woe and indignation, frustration and apathy. In the hotel industry, I interact with folk at all points on the mood spectrum. That evening was such a surprise to my wife and I that we still smile to think of it. It was, in a word, LOVELY!

TO: The Musical Ladies of Winter Street: Our hearty thanks for a wonderful and helpful surprise. You made it a very special bedtime for our Miss Crabby-Pants.

Image courtesy of Tina Keller

 

Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall
Action! Embark on Martha’s Vineyard Tour of All Things Jaws
Soak in the Sunshine at the Best Martha’s Vineyard Beaches
The Top 7 Edgartown, MA Restaurants for Seafood Lovers
Cycle Around on the Best Martha’s Vineyard Bike Rentals
Play a Round at Martha’s Vineyard’s Best Golf Courses
Engage in a Martha’s Vineyard Shopping Escapade
Enjoy a Pint from the Best Martha’s Vineyard Breweries
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Sunset by Joanne Sardini

I often describe the arrival of summer on Martha’s Vineyard as the prospect of a visit from a favorite aunt – you can’t wait for them to arrive, but after 3 months, you’re ready for it to be over!  This year, I have mixed emotions about this.  Labor Day, the traditional ‘end’ of summer season on Martha’s Vineyard, is marked by crisp mornings and evenings with abundant sunshine throughout the day – in short a perfect weather end to a not so perfect weather summer.  This is where my problem lies – I feel like I just didn’t get enough summer in yet! And then I remember the sage advice I give to lots of vacationers – the best is yet to come – come back in September – it’s the BEST month!

September on the Vineyard is a very special experience.  Somehow everything is a little softer – the light is beautiful, especially in the early evenings, with some of the most amazing sunsets and sunrises I have every seen.  The visitors seem less rushed and harried and the workers are all happy to have “made it” to September with another summer season behind them.  Sure, weekends can still get a little crazy due to the booming Island wedding season but if you can come to Martha’s Vineyard mid-week in September you will surely be delighted.

It’s still warm enough to get to the beach without having to fight for a spot to lay your towel.  The water is warmed by those long summer days and is warmer now than through most of July so a swim is definitely not out of the question.  The air is dry enough that a long walk or bike ride is not hampered by that pesky humidity.  There are surprising bargains to be had as the stores sell off their merchandise at discounted prices to empty out for the next season and to top it off, dining is made easier by the dwindling crowds – no more 1 hour waits for a table – yippee!

If you are a visitor, undoubtedly the other great part about visiting in September is the cost.  At the Colonial Inn, there are some great mid-week special rates that extend through the fall that really help you stretch that dollar!

So summer need not end at Labor Day – come and play among the locals – do a survey among them and I promise that 95% will tell you that September is their favorite month – give it a go!

What else do you love about September?

 

Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall
Action! Embark on Martha’s Vineyard Tour of All Things Jaws
Soak in the Sunshine at the Best Martha’s Vineyard Beaches
The Top 7 Edgartown, MA Restaurants for Seafood Lovers
Cycle Around on the Best Martha’s Vineyard Bike Rentals
Play a Round at Martha’s Vineyard’s Best Golf Courses
Engage in a Martha’s Vineyard Shopping Escapade
Enjoy a Pint from the Best Martha’s Vineyard Breweries

ice-cream1Okay, yes. We are Newbie parents. We kept as much sugar our of our baby girl’s life as possible during the first year. I have already received mockery from friends and family for this (no TV either. How shocking…) so no taunting the blog-guy!

Now, however, we have discovered the joys of “Icey Creeem” as Kate calls it. We can no longer share a cone with her. She seizes the cone and burrows into it. She can spot an ice cream shop at a hundred yards it seems and gives us a look that says: “So where’s my cone?”

Therefore, our quest for the Best Cone Ever began. So let me review the Shoppes we have purchased our bits ‘o freezy goodness from so far. I will list them from my least favorite to my most. Although I bear no ill will to any…someone has to be last! Remember: I am evaluating by Travelling-With-Toddler criteria. My main concerns are: how hard is it to keep track of Kiddo in this shop and how expensive will this child’s new outfit moistening snack be, since she will wear most of it (not to mention anoint us as well).

Mad Martha’s- This is a popular spot on North Water Street and has a wide array of sundaes and frappes available as well. It shares the space with a sandwich shop so it is usually crowded. The ice cream is great but a tad pricey. (Okay it is the Island so everything is a little more expensive than other places, but I dislike waiting in a crowded shop to pay quite a bit more for ice cream.) They also have no kid’s cone option.

Scoops- They have a great location on the corner of Main and South Water Streets and are a lot roomier inside as you enter. They have a great selection of flavors but not as wide an array of non-cone choices, but that’s okay. They are called “Scoops”. They have a great price on a kid’s sized cone. The only problem I have with their cones is this: they are always super melty. The freezers are open topped and are open all the time and when we buy a cone, it is a race against time to consume any of it before it has liquefied and is dripping off my hands. Maybe the ice cream staying softer prevents the full-time scooping staff from strained wrists or something. (I am not a big fan of sticky mess, as anyone who knows me can attest. Okay…it is ice cream and summer and that combination is never a good combo for anti-sticky lobbyists, but I feel that having to perform bottom-of-the-cone melt control slurps before you have stepped away from the building is asking a bit much of me.)

Carousel- I don’t often get to Oak Bluffs in the summer, but we made a special trip one Sunday afternoon and had a delightful time at Carousel. The kid’s cone was a good size for a great price, the flavors were numerous and the shop was big enough not to seem too crowded. The person who served us was what made us enjoy our “icey creeem” the most. He was more than happy to let us try a few different flavors as samples before we committed to a full cone of that flavor and was more that willing to sell al three of us kid sized cones. Some places have to be cajoled into that deal. (Let’s face facts. I am a large, round man. I don’t NEED three whole scoops of ice milk and sugar in my system…the less I have the better, frankly. A small scoop is treat enough for me). When we said we had experienced reluctance from other shops about small cones he grinned and said “Come on! It’s ice cream! They shouldn’t be so serious. I love this job!”

It was a refreshing bit of friendliness during the busy middle of the summer doldrums and it made us instant fans. So many servers and clerks reach that tired point that it felt good to smile at his enthusiasm. He made our day!

So there you have my findings thus far, from least favorite to most.

“There’s one more,” he says in a whisper, casting furtive glances over his shoulder. “The Quarterdeck has a small soft-serve, $2.50 street value. Perfect for when the kid needs her ‘icey creeem’ fix and yer short of cash. It’s our secret vice! Tell them Kiddo sent ya!”

Image courtesy of tedkirwin

 

Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall
Action! Embark on Martha’s Vineyard Tour of All Things Jaws
Soak in the Sunshine at the Best Martha’s Vineyard Beaches
The Top 7 Edgartown, MA Restaurants for Seafood Lovers
Cycle Around on the Best Martha’s Vineyard Bike Rentals
Play a Round at Martha’s Vineyard’s Best Golf Courses
Engage in a Martha’s Vineyard Shopping Escapade
Enjoy a Pint from the Best Martha’s Vineyard Breweries

chescas1-150x150No one can come and stay at the Colonial Inn, or indeed in Edgartown, without knowing Chesca’s. This restaurant is an island institution and has built a very loyal following over its 16 years anchoring the porch of the Colonial Inn on North Water Street. ‘Urban Italian’ is how they describe the cuisine – to me that means lots of yummy pastas, great risotto, lots of fresh fish and seafood and a lot of other good stuff besides.

The atmosphere is always hopping – lots of activity and people having fun. They don’t take reservations unless there are 6 people or more, so don’t show up starving and expect to sit straight away – the average wait runs at about a half hour but this leaves time for a cold beverage in a rocking chair on the porch and some good old people watching time. In fact, most of the regulars feel a bit put out if they don’t have to wait as the waiting on the porch is all part of the experience.

At Chesca’s I’m a creature of habit – I know that there are many great items on the menu, but I have my favorites! (Full disclosure time – I work there as a hostess a few nights a week). They have many fantastic entrée options but I like to go the appetizer-salad-dessert route, otherwise I don’t have room for the dessert and it is not-to-be-missed (there are 10 to choose from – the most extensive list I’ve come across!).

I’m a sucker for the Mussels (with leeks, fennel, shallots and white wine) and I ALWAYS need extra bread to go with them to soak up all the delicious broth. Next, I go for the warm Goat Cheese Salad on baby spinach – toasted hazelnuts give it a bit of crunch and the raspberry lime vinaigrette is perfect. I said I always leave room for dessert and my favorite is the Snowball – vanilla bean ice cream, rolled in sponge cake crumbs, surrounded by caramel sauce and crumbled Chilmark Chocolate pieces – simple but DELICIOUS!!!!

If you just can’t get enough Chesca’s during your visit, you can now have the taste of Chesca’s at home all year. Chesca’s Kitchen Table sauces are available at the Farmers Market, Cronigs, Morning Glory Farm and other Island retailers as well as straight from the restaurant. The Thai Chili Glaze, House Balsamic Dressing and yummy Chocolate Sauce are all available to take back home. I use the chili glaze in lots of ways, not just on salmon – on fish, pork or chicken as a glaze, thinned out with some olive oil as a salad dressing or as a warm dipping sauce for egg rolls or other little hors d’oeuvres.

What’s your favorite dish at Chesca’s?

Image courtesy of Chesca’s.

 

Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall
Action! Embark on Martha’s Vineyard Tour of All Things Jaws
Soak in the Sunshine at the Best Martha’s Vineyard Beaches
The Top 7 Edgartown, MA Restaurants for Seafood Lovers
Cycle Around on the Best Martha’s Vineyard Bike Rentals
Play a Round at Martha’s Vineyard’s Best Golf Courses
Engage in a Martha’s Vineyard Shopping Escapade
Enjoy a Pint from the Best Martha’s Vineyard Breweries
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Eisenhauer Gallery

Like most people who live on Martha’s Vineyard, I wear more than one hat. I love my job here with our guests at the Colonial Inn & Edgartown Residence Club, but I also would not feel like a whole person if I ever gave up my identity as a freelance illustrator. Those of us with an artist’s eye seem to be drawn to the island, which I blame on the truly magical quality of the light, whose beauty seems to reach its pinnacle in September and October. My theory has always been that this is caused by some mystical reflection off of all the water that surrounds us. No matter the reason, I’m sure all of you who have spent time here have lost yourselves in the beauty of the island also. But have you ever considered taking some of it home with you? The multitude of local and visiting artists make it possible for you to do just that. Stroll our countless galleries to take in the love of Martha’s Vineyard that covers the canvases of these incredibly talented men and women. There are far too many to name in one blog, so I will start right here in Edgartown.

You don’t even have to leave the Colonial Inn to visit one of the most versatile galleries in town, the Eisenhauer Gallery. Here you can find beautiful pastoral and seaside landscapes, classic still-lifes, and whimsical character studies, not to mention unique sculptures, one of a kind antiques, and an exquisite collection of jewelry.

Exit our back door and enter the Debra M. Gaines Gallery in Nevin Square. You won’t be able to resist taking home some of her reasonably priced, breathtaking island photography and/or her husband’s lovely Vineyard paintings.

Next, turn left and walk half a block to the Christina Gallery on the corner of Winter and North Water Streets to take in the ample collection of Impressionist oil landscapes and florals, still-lifes, and antique prints and maps.

Just across North Water Street, the North Water Gallery shows some of the islands most noted and respected artists. Feast your eyes and senses on some of the most exquisite landscapes and nautical oil paintings on Martha’s Vineyard.

For a completely different offering, turn right out the door and right again on Kelley Street, past the municipal lot, and into the Belushi Pisano Gallery, which honored us by moving to Edgartown from Vineyard Haven this year. The bright, happy interior is the perfect backdrop for the contemporary paintings and ceramics on display here.

Turn left on Dock Street and finish your art walk at the historic Old Sculpin Gallery and see their permanent collection of made-on-the-Vineyard art from 1879 to the present. If your walk has inspired your artistic abilities, you can sign up here for classes and workshops!

That’s enough of a stroll for one day, but keep your artistic juices flowing, because I haven’t even touched Oak Bluffs, Vineyard Haven or the very special up island galleries yet!

 

Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall
Action! Embark on Martha’s Vineyard Tour of All Things Jaws
Soak in the Sunshine at the Best Martha’s Vineyard Beaches
The Top 7 Edgartown, MA Restaurants for Seafood Lovers
Cycle Around on the Best Martha’s Vineyard Bike Rentals
Play a Round at Martha’s Vineyard’s Best Golf Courses
Engage in a Martha’s Vineyard Shopping Escapade
Enjoy a Pint from the Best Martha’s Vineyard Breweries