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Written by Rick

Family walking on beachI don’t know why there is so much divisiveness and trouble in this world.  We should all be able to get along.  After all, there are really only two kinds of people in the world: those who take vacations and those who never do so.

Of course, when it comes to vacations, there are two kinds of people in the world: the Crazies and the Slackers.  The Crazies tend to be found in urban settings and hectic places like Disney World.  The Slackers would rather, well, slack off on vacation.  You’ll find them in more natural locations with very little to do.  The Crazies would go crazy with boredom on a Slacker vacation.  Many a Slacker would die of exhaustion or sensory overload on a Crazy vacation.

I used to be a Crazy.  During my vacations I did a lot, experienced a lot, walked a lot, ran a lot, spent a lot, and occasionally learned a lot.  When I got home from vacation, I needed a vacation.  Now, whether due to growing wiser, growing duller, or just growing older, I can be counted among the Slackers.  Give me a book or a chair (preferably both) and I’m content.

Then again, the Slackers come in two varieties: water people and land people.  The former head to the lakes, oceans, and rivers while the latter are found in the mountains and forests.  While retaining a fondness for all things natural and peaceful, I hereby confess to being an unabashed water person.

Here in New England, the water people are generally divided into the lake and ocean parties.  Winnipesaukee is a classic destination for lake folk, although there is an abundance of choices spread around the six state region.  Being an ocean person, I eschew the slimy bottoms, waveless surfaces and dirt beaches of the lakes.  I like my water moving, thank you very much.

Once more there is a major split here, this time between mainland and island dwellers.  The coast of Maine certainly offers its share of coastline and islands, but here our focus is on the gap between Cape Cod people and Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket people.  I’ll be brutally honest.  I don’t like Cape Cod.  Why?  First of all, you can drive to it.  (See my ferry post of 5/16/10.)  And, man, do people drive to it!  Yes, it has miles of spectacular coastline, some cool lighthouses and bike paths, but it also has MacDonald’s, Christmas Tree Shops and other denizens of perdition.  If I want to dine at Olive Garden and shop at Walmart (I don’t!) I might as well stay home.

So we’re left with the final bifurcation: Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket.  Guess who wins my affections?  Again, a little candor is called for here.  I have never been to Nantucket.  I don’t ever plan to go to Nantucket.  I have no desire to go to Nantucket.  I’m sure it’s a beautiful place.  I have nothing bad to say about it.  I could write – to paraphrase the title of an Ogden Nash poem – “Impressions Of Nantucket By One Who Has Never Been There”.  But I’m no Ogden Nash so I won’t risk being that presumptuous.

So why the Martha’s Vineyard choice?  I’m told that Nantucket is relatively homogenous – outside of the few millionaires living in low-income housing, it’s pretty much billionaires in seclusion.  The Vineyard actually fulfills that now prosaic quality of “diversity” that everyone talks about and yet avoids in practice.  There are the rich and the working class, the mansions and the gingerbread houses, the elite and the hoi polloi, the artists and the farmers.  Can there be two cities more different than Oak Bluffs and Chilmark?  It’s an affront to evolution that they co-exist on the same island.  And I love it!

So what this all comes down to is that there really are only two kinds of people in the world: Martha’s Vineyard people and the rest.  Why can’t we all just get along?

Postscript: It should be noted that on certain Saturdays in August, there seem to be only Vineyard people.  And they’re all in line at Mad Martha’s.  Sigh.

Image courtesy of Nicole Friedler

Go Exploring with the Best Martha’s Vineyard Tours
Treat Yourself to Fine Dining at the Top Edgartown Spots
Check Out Things to Do in Oak Bluffs on a Memorable Day Trip
Celebrate the Fourth of July with Martha’s Vineyard Events
Live like a New England Local This Spring
Martha’s Vineyard vs. Nantucket: Which One Comes Out on Top
Treat Yourself to Something New at Martha’s Vineyard Shops
A Guide to Martha’s Vineyard Weather through the Seasons

As a writer, I love hyperbole. It grabs the reader’s attention, making the point and then some – stretching the truth for good purpose. The title of this post is a great example.Sharky’s Cantina may not be the Greatest Place to Eat in the Whole Wide World, but if it isn’t, it’s darn close. Seriously, given the choices out there, I think I’d just as soon eat at Sharky’s as any other place. Why? I’m glad I asked.

First and second, it’s funky and fun. Third, fourth, and fifth, the food is great, the selection wide, and the prices reasonable.

I first came to an awareness of Sharky’s when there was just the Oak Bluffs location, a cozy little spot that they’ve occupied since 2003. It was great, but a bit crowded. (More hyperbole. Think: squeezing the New England Patriots defensive line into a Smart Car.) The place was consistently bursting at the seams with people stuffing their faces with tacos, chimichangas, and burritos, all the while washing them down with sangria and margaritas.

An added attraction, if the mob scene wasn’t enough to draw you in, was the requirement to visit “The Shark Tank” next door if you had to (how shall I put this delicately?) deal with all those drinks you’d been downing. As a guy, there’s something distinctly unsettling about doing my business in a facility called “The Shark Tank”.

Note that none of this kept me away. The pluses far outweighed the downsides. My family went there at every opportunity. Still, it was clear that they needed more space. In 2005, the much-needed larger Edgartown location opened. It can almost handle the crowds who continue to flock there. The outside seating under the lights helps a great deal in the good weather. (Yet another benefit: Sharky’s is open year-round. No unrequited hankering for tacos in the dead of January!)

Truth be told, Mexican food would not be my first choice of cuisine. Much of it I can take or leave. That’s OK. My family is heavily (no pun intended) into it and I like enough of it to appreciate the place. Just the awesome freshly-made chips and pico de gallo are enough to sate my appetite. I have two burrito-devotee daughters who swear by that selection. My wife considers the veggie tacos to be unsurpassed.

The funny thing is that I don’t order Mexican from their menu anymore. Not because it’s not good. It is! However, I’ve discovered the Sharky’s Special Sauce Burger. I know it’s not a burger joint, but this is one of the best burgers on the planet. Between the burger and the excellent fries, I rarely find a need to stray from that selection. Look, if I ate there thee times a week – and I might if I could – I’d mix in the tacos, fajitas, and quesadillas. Unfortunately, I only get there a few times a year. Thus, it’s generally the burger for me.

If there’s any room after the chips and pico de gallo, that is.

Image courtesy of roolrool.

Go Exploring with the Best Martha’s Vineyard Tours
Treat Yourself to Fine Dining at the Top Edgartown Spots
Check Out Things to Do in Oak Bluffs on a Memorable Day Trip
Celebrate the Fourth of July with Martha’s Vineyard Events
Live like a New England Local This Spring
Martha’s Vineyard vs. Nantucket: Which One Comes Out on Top
Treat Yourself to Something New at Martha’s Vineyard Shops
A Guide to Martha’s Vineyard Weather through the Seasons

long point wildlife refuge-resized-600

My family has been vacationing on Martha’s Vineyard for so long, it seems as if we’ve done all there is to do and seen all there is to see.  This summer we put that myth to rest.

For an island of only 87 square miles, the Vineyard is home to an amazing variety of landscapes, living spaces, and ecosystems.  At my wife’s suggestion, we went exploring via kayak one such area we had never set eyes on before: Long Point Wildlife Refuge.

Long Point is managed by The Trustees of Reservations. The Trustees manage dozens of spectacular properties all over Massachusetts.  Long Point is one of several on the Vineyard.  For a reasonable fee (especially for those who are members of the Trustees) we joined a kayak tour with several other people to explore this Undiscovered (to us) Country.

Our two hour voyage took place on Tisbury Great Pond, located on the south coast of the island.  Our group was led by a young man named Guillermo.  He was personable, knowledgeable, helpful, and more than patient with those of us who were kayak-challenged.

The only negative aspect of the trip turned out to be a benefit of sorts.  Our entire tour took place under the cloak of a fog that made anything more than fifty feet away look otherworldly and those over one hundred feet mere objects of our imagination.  It was a real impetus to stay as close as possible to Guillermo’s lead kayak.

Though we could not see the sights that were distant in that near dream world, we could see the birds and sea life that were nearby, and there was plenty of that.  We also learned a lot about the earliest native inhabitants of the area.  The blessing of the fog was that we were protected from a hot sun that we knew was somewhere beyond the misty shroud.  The exertion of paddling kept us plenty warm.

At one point we disembarked on the narrow beach that separates the pond from the ocean.  With the serene pond on one side and the turbulent waters of the Atlantic on the other, all lit by the ethereal glow of daylight in disguise, our intrepid band was energized and moved.

While the trip was a first for us, it will not be the last.  I want to go back to see what was beyond the fog!  We were also inspired to explore other unfamiliar Island locales. I doubt we will ever exhaust the possibilities of our vacation home.

Go Exploring with the Best Martha’s Vineyard Tours
Treat Yourself to Fine Dining at the Top Edgartown Spots
Check Out Things to Do in Oak Bluffs on a Memorable Day Trip
Celebrate the Fourth of July with Martha’s Vineyard Events
Live like a New England Local This Spring
Martha’s Vineyard vs. Nantucket: Which One Comes Out on Top
Treat Yourself to Something New at Martha’s Vineyard Shops
A Guide to Martha’s Vineyard Weather through the Seasons

ferry1Probably one of the least romanticized aspects of Martha’s Vineyard is the Steamship Authority‘s ferry service.  It’s old.  It’s stodgy.  It’s even smelly on occasion.  People may make disparaging comments about the boats or the service or the crowds, but I’ll have none of it.  Think of me what you will, but I like the ferry.  It’s the people’s option.

The best part about taking the ferry is the separation that it provides from the land-locked life.  When I’m riding on the ferry, traversing Vineyard Sound to the Island, I can feel the anxiety and stress falling from me as if an oversized knapsack has been loosed from my back after a long, arduous hike.  As I anticipate a stay on the Island, my shoulders seem to rise an inch or two from the sheer relief of burdens picked up on the mainland.  I need that time of adjustment.

If there were a bridge or tunnel to the Vineyard, as some souvenir car stickers would have you believe, I would still take the boat.  I like the physical and emotional transition that it affords.  That’s why, when taking the car on the ferry, it’s best to get out and spend the crossing time topside.  Getting into the car and not getting out until you are on the Island has the same effect as driving over a bridge.  You just don’t get the break you need to start a real vacation.

Ferry-by-takomabibelot (1)Today there are two primary steamships making the voyage from Woods Hole, mypreferred point of departure: the three-year-old “M/V Island Home” and the venerable (by comparison) “M/V Martha’s Vineyard”.  (There is also a set of freighter ships, but I prefer to stay with the passenger vessels.  Even I have my limits!)  My preference is for the bi-directional newer ship.  It doesn’t need to turn around upon MV arrival as the older boat does.  Thus, I can set my feet on Island soil that much sooner.

The Steamship is reliable and consistent.  It runs year round and only the harshest of weather keeps it from its appointed rounds.  Its persistence accounts for some exciting happenings.  I recall a particularly rough crossing, during which one courageous soul insisted on sitting on the outside deck of the ferry.  As he sat alone  (no one else was foolhardy enough to venture outside on this passage) reading his newspaper, a rogue wave came over the front of the ship, engulfing him in bone-chilling salt water.  He came back inside, humbled, wiser, and soaked to the marrow.

I don’t mean to disparage the obvious benefits of the alternative means of transport.  The “Island Queen”, a passenger-only vessel that takes its patrons from Falmouth Harbor to Oak Bluffs Harbor, is fast and convenient, with far less hectic departures and arrivals.  From the other side of Falmouth Harbor, the quaint “Pied Piper” will drop you off right in downtown Edgartown.  (How cool is that?)  I won’t touch on the relative merits of the air routes to the Vineyard.  That discussion is left for the more affluent among us.

All things considered, however, I prefer the pace, tradition, and yes, the price of the Steamship Authority option.  Truth be told, anything that gets me to the Vineyard is appreciated!  In this case, because of the delights of the destination, getting there is not nearly half the fun!

Go Exploring with the Best Martha’s Vineyard Tours
Treat Yourself to Fine Dining at the Top Edgartown Spots
Check Out Things to Do in Oak Bluffs on a Memorable Day Trip
Celebrate the Fourth of July with Martha’s Vineyard Events
Live like a New England Local This Spring
Martha’s Vineyard vs. Nantucket: Which One Comes Out on Top
Treat Yourself to Something New at Martha’s Vineyard Shops
A Guide to Martha’s Vineyard Weather through the Seasons

Chocolate eggs by sister72

Chocolate.  The mere word conjures up all manner of sensations: images, scents – even moods.  But most of all tastes.  It is part of our diet and part of our culture.  Consider the phrases that have entered the vox populi:

When the going gets tough, the tough get chocolate.
Chocolate: It’s not just for breakfast anymore.
Life is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you’re going to get.
All I really need is love, but a little chocolate now and then doesn’t hurt!

It’s bad for your waistline but a good source of anti-oxidants. And it tastes like heaven.  We rationalize and take the oh-so-good with the bad.

So what does all this have to do with Martha’s Vineyard?  Well, MV is a chocolate lover’s dream, with several places to go to meet one’s Recommended Daily Allowance of Brown Gold.  (Sorry, but the white stuff simply isn’t chocolate.)  Below, find a brief compendium of chocolate oriented destinations:

In Edgartown, the Ice Cream and Candy Bazaar reigns, partly for its selection of yummy chocolate treats but also for its location: right on the harbor.  (See my post from July for a paean to that place.)  Added bonuses are the ice cream and fun penny candy… none of which costs a penny. This is the Vineyard, after all!

Oak Bluffs holds a treasure in Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium.  One of four locations – the others being Falmouth, Northampton, MA and Bar Harbor – this place has a huge variety of chocolate and chocolate-covered delights, from truffles to turtles.  My daughter swears by the chocolate-covered gummy bears.  I’ll take her word for it since I am not gummiverous.  Ice cream is offered at the Circuit Avenue location as well.  That alone is worth the trip.

Finally, there’s Chilmark Chocolates.  As the name would suggest, this is a chocolate store.  No ice cream, no drinks, no penny candy, no web site, no scenic seating area, no room to move.  This place is all about the chocolate.  Period.  But it doesn’t need anything else.  The delicacies are all hand made or hand-dipped and they are all delicious.

One thing I love about Chilmark Chocolates is that they know we need them more than they need us.  They make that clear through a variety of means:  First of all, they are never open.  OK, that’s an exaggeration, but not much of one.  They are only open a few days a week, a few hours a day.  And they invariably close during the busiest week of the summer! (A side effect of the limited availability is the often unlimited lines.)  Second, their location up island is relatively remote compared to the likes of Circuit Ave., Upper Main Street, or Five Corners.  Finally, the store is really just a short corridor. Walk in one side and out the other.  There is nowhere else to go.

But there is nowhere else you need to go, because along that corridor is a glass enclosed display of the finest chocolate treats you are likely to find anywhere.  And they are surprisingly reasonably priced.

Finally, know that when you patronize Chilmark Chocolates, you are supporting a business that was created to (and still does) employ disabled workers.  What could be better than buying and eating the world’s best chocolate as your good deed for the day?

 

Where do you get your chocolate fix?

Photo by sister72

 

Go Exploring with the Best Martha’s Vineyard Tours
Treat Yourself to Fine Dining at the Top Edgartown Spots
Check Out Things to Do in Oak Bluffs on a Memorable Day Trip
Celebrate the Fourth of July with Martha’s Vineyard Events
Live like a New England Local This Spring
Martha’s Vineyard vs. Nantucket: Which One Comes Out on Top
Treat Yourself to Something New at Martha’s Vineyard Shops
A Guide to Martha’s Vineyard Weather through the Seasons