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Written by Rick

ProudHaitianVacationing on Martha’s Vineyard is my favorite way to get away from it all.  Sometimes, however, “it all” comes to haunt in a way that undermines any such attempt.  That has been the case since January 12, 2010.

The Vineyard is one of the most beautiful, luxurious, and comfortable vacation spots in the world.  At the other end of the affluence spectrum is the nation of Haiti, which occupies the western third of the island of Hispaniola.  Before January 12th, Haiti was already the poorest nation in the Western Hemisphere.  Since the earthquake of that date, its usual misery has increased beyond measure.

Take a look at some statistics: The average Haitian survives on about one dollar a day. In other words, the average Haitian would have to work a week to buy an ice cream at Mad Martha’s. They would have to work a year to afford one night’s stay at an upscale hotel.  However, since unemployment there is about 70-80%, the point is moot for most.  About 1 in 10 Haitian children will not reach their 5th birthday.  Most Haitians can’t read or write and only about 50% have sustained access to clean water. (Please note that these dreadful figures pre-date the earthquake, so things have only gotten worse.)

It’s hard to reconcile the differences between the two places, one so idyllic, the other so afflicted.  Perhaps it’s not possible to reconcile them, but it is always possible to work towards equity.  The people of Martha’s Vineyard have reached out.  Try Googling “martha’s vineyard haiti” to find several such initiatives.  You only have to look as far as the back door of the Colonial Inn to find Bluefish Coastal Boutique where they are donating 30% of all online sales until the end of April to Red Cross Haiti relief.

As a visitor to and supporter of Haiti for the past ten years, these efforts hearten me, even as the events there cause me distress.  In 2000, I traveled to Haiti for the first time.  What I saw changed my life forever in countless ways.  Since then, I have been back on several occasions, most recently this past November.   There are many people there that I love and want to help in any way I can. To make that happen, I serve on the board of a non-profit organization, Servants for Haiti, that supports a school and an orphanage in the earthquake ravaged capital of Port-au-Prince.

There can only be two viable and consistent responses to this disparity: gratitude and generosity.  Gratitude for all that we have been blessed with, and the generous sharing of those blessings with our destitute neighbors.

The first is easy and can (and should) be practiced constantly.  Next time you feel compelled to complain about slow service at an island eatery, consider my good friend Jonas, who does not know when he will eat next.  If you want to whine about waiting in traffic at Five Corners, think of David Andre who suffers migraines so excruciating that they cause him to pass out, but whose family cannot afford medical treatment.  I could go on and on (and on…) but you get the point.

The generosity response is almost as easy.  Many organizations exist to help those less fortunate.  The Red Cross, Partners in Health, and World Vision are among the most effective in the world at helping the poor and all are active in Haiti relief work.  (I would also commend to you the organization I serve. Learn more about us atwww.servantsforhaiti.org .)

Consider all that you have been given and respond appropriately.  Reach out to our Haitian friends and neighbors. Donate your time and your money and encourage others to do the same.  A just world is worth sacrificing for.

UPDATE: Since Rick submitted this post for us he has been involved in organising afundraiser for Servants of Haiti – one of the prizes is a weekend at the Edgartown Residence Club which Rick and his family are kindly donating.  2 of Rick’sadult children have recently returned from volunteering in the aftermath of the earthquake so please help them help others by getting involved in this or any of the other great fundraising efforts that many people are involved in both on Martha’s Vineyard and all over the world.

Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown
Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard

park

No matter how much we love the Vineyard, there are times when it becomes so hectic that we need a break from the break we took here.  Crowds, heat, and noise conspire to drive us into sensory overload thus unraveling our reasons for coming here in the first place.  Edgartown, as much as I love it, is as prone to this phenomenon as any town on the Island.  (Though Five Corners at unloading time still sets the standard for MV insanity.)

 

While genuine isolation can be found up-island, on Chappy, and a few other places even during high season, there are times when I don’t want to travel that far to escape the hustle, bustle and tussle.  Fortunately, I know of the perfect outdoor oasis.  I share it here at the risk of exposing my secret.  (Let’s keep it to ourselves, shall we?)

 

Sequestered nicely between North Water Street, Summer Street, Winter Street and MainStreet, there is a block of quiet, calm and cool to be found right in the center of otherwise frantic Edgartown.  Behind the shops on those streets, a grassy respite awaits the overheated, overindulged tourist.

It’s just a small park with the usual accoutrements: grass, trees, benches and brick walkways.  Somehow, though, even on the steamiest of days, the shading oak trees keep this park cool and the surrounding buildings filter out the tumult of the streets.

 

This space has everything you’d need for a picnic… including ants.  (Nothing is perfect.)  My tastes, however, lean toward the decidedly more quiescent.  An ice cream cone or bag of “penny” candy is the perfect repast for me while I lounge in the shade.

 

Birds sing in the trees, oblivious to the craziness just a few flaps of the wing away.  A passing squirrel may shyly scamper by seeking his own shelter.  There are no bikes to dodge or mopeds to lag behind.  Just an occasional pedestrian passing through. There are no souvenirs, no food for sale – nothing to spend money on at all.  In other words, it has everything I need for a fleeting vacation from my vacation.

 

I never linger too long in this park.  Somehow, that would spoil the effect for me.  I simply sit or lie on the lawn, cool down, recharge, then head out to do battle once more with the madding throng.

 

I require an extra long break if I’m coming from Five Corners, though.

Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown
Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard

alleysOne of the things I love about Martha’s Vineyard is the lack of chain stores and especially the dreaded “big box” shops.  Even better, the island is populated with little box stores.  My favorites as a class are the general stores.  They are definitely throwbacks to a bygone era.  Most Americans know them only from period TV shows and movies.  People on the Vineyard are blessed to know them first hand.    Here are my three favorites:

Though it doesn’t have “general” in its name, Chilmark Store has all the essential elements to deserve that appellation.  First of all, it’s at the heart of the community, barely a whelk shell’s throw from Beetlebung corner, the library and the community center.  (Just down the road from Chilmark Chocolates too, but that gets its own blog entry.)  It’s also a community billboard.  Every local event and business seems to be advertised via poster on the walls of the building.

Chilmark Store is all about the food.  Yes, there is a nominal selection of groceries and other sundries, but the pizza and sub counter is where the traffic is.  (It’s also in the parking lot, but that’s another story.)  Pick up a pizza or sub and settle on one of the rocking chairs on the porch.  You can also take your slice of pizza a short drive to Menemsha beach to watch the sunset.  Either way, you’ll fully comprehend the meaning of the Italian motto posted on the store’s porch: “Il dolce momento”, the sweet moment.

On the way to South Beach?  You’ll be passing another primo emporium, Katama General Store.  The operative word for this place is “eclectic”.  What they lack in quantity of selection, they make up for in variety.  Where else would you find frozen Eggo waffles in the same freezer as gelato and ketchup within an arm’s reach of organic local goods?  The most common products are the seemingly countless items emblazoned with the store’s ubiquitous crab logo.

After procuring all of your beach needs – chairs, umbrellas, and toys – from the shop’s ample selection, grab a drink and a snack and settle into one of the tables in the colorful flower garden (sunflowers, bachelor buttons, day lilies, and many more) out front.  When you finally make it to the beach, you’ll know you’ve made the most of your trip!

The granddaddy (or more accurately, great great granddaddy) of them all, however, is also the best of the bunch in this writer’s humble opinion.  Alley’s General Store in West Tisbury is so classic that it’s owned by the MV Preservation Trust.  At over a century and a half and still going strong, it’s not only the oldest retail establishment on the island, it’s quite possibly the coolest.  They proclaim themselves as “dealers in almost everything.”  My only quibble with that slogan is that I’m not convinced about the “almost” part.

Part hardware store, part post office, part tourist trap (not to mention grocery store, garden center, beach supply store, farm stand, news stand and a few other stands), Alley’s may not have everything, but it has everything you need and then some.  I’m talking mini-Ben and Jerry’s, imported Italian pasta, local artist CD’s, 3-D anatomic pig (or for the bovine-inclined, cow) puzzles…  You get the idea.  They have a lot more than you need.  The only thing Alley’s is short on is prepared food.  Not to worry.  You’ll find Garcia’s Bakery and Deli at “Back Alley’s”, the building at the rear of the parking lot.

Alley’s also has the most important feature for a general store: a front porch with seating, including a porch swing!  This place is more than a store, it’s a destination – one that’s worth the trip up-island.

Image of Alley’s General Store courtesty of MVOL.com

 

Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown
Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard

bike-tourAmong the many attractions of Martha’s Vineyard are the bike paths that wind all over the eastern half of the island. I love the narrow meandering routes they take, whether through woods or along the seashore. Roads are OK for biking for some, but I admit to being a little wary ever since I got clipped by a Hoosier minivan many years ago. I was riding on the West Tisbury Road before the bike path was extended into Edgartown. It was especially unnerving because I had my daughter perched in a child seat on the back of my bike. Maybe you can understand my preference for the bike paths.

There are so many paths and they can take you to lots of places: beaches, lakes, restaurants, town centers, shops, parks, even an airport or two. They can also transport you to less tangible destinations. Here are a few that appeal to my sensibilities…

Fitness is important to many of us. The bike paths are a direct route to that goal. A bike ride is a great non-impact aerobic workout. That doesn’t mean you have to shell out two grand for a titanium bike and enshroud yourself in spandex. I’m passed by those guys (and women) all the time, but I’m getting all the workout I need in my T-shirt and low-end Trek hybrid.

I’ve got nothing against the Lance Armstrong wannabe’s, but I like to set a more leisurely pace. I want to actually see the sights on the path. That’s the second destination I head for. There is real beauty to be seen on the journey. Trees, flowers, wildlife, water, and all the other things that make the Vineyard special. Speed has its rewards, but how can you smell the roses when you can’t even see them? G. K. Chesterton said, “The world will never starve for want of wonders; but only for want of wonder.” It’s a wonder why anyone would miss the wonders of Martha’s Vineyard by turning them into a blur.

Finally, the bike path brings me to a place that I enjoy all too infrequently in today’s world: community. There is a fellowship on the bike path that hearkens back to a previous era. Strangers actually greet one another. It may be a “Good morning” or just a wave or nod of the head, but it feels like neighborhood to me and I like it.

So, strap on that helmet and start pedaling. I’ll see you on the bike path!

Postscript: One final worthy destination for your bike trip: a world free of Multiple Sclerosis. The first weekend of May each year, the Island hosts “Ride the Vineyard”, the kickoff event for the MS Bike trip season. The next one is May 1, 2010. You can support this cause by riding or donating. It’s a great ride with an unbeatable destination! More information can be found at the MS Society’s web site for bike events.

Editor’s Note: New this year, you can also cycle for a good cause in October. The 2009 Cycle Martha’s Vineyard ride will be held on October 17. The 50K or 100K bike ride will benefit the Rotary Club of Martha’s Vineyard and the Martha’s Vineyard Big Brothers/Big Sisters program.
Image courtesy of Dainis Matisons

 

Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown
Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard

wasqueSouth Beach is anything but cool. It’s crowded, cacophonous and constantly in motion. To be really cool, you’ve gotta be seen at Lucy Vincent, Wasque, Moshup or one of the other more exclusive spots. But exclusivity is the problem for me. I don’t want to have to be a resident, I don’t want to have to take a boat (ferry) to the beach and I sure as shootin’ don’t want to pay!

Beaches should be a populist affair. Liberty and justice, everyone created equal, power to the people, all for one and one for all and all that. South Beach fits that bill to a capital “T”. The ocean there is no respecter of persons. The waves at Katama (a.k.a. South Beach) will slap you around mercilessly, be you pauper or prince, president or peon. When it dunks you under, it doesn’t ask first if you’re a year-rounder, a Yankee fan or a Cabot.

Just a few miles from downtown Edgartown, there is no fee for parking, although you might have to fight for your vehicle’s place in the sun. The bike path leads right up to the sand. Life guards in classic bright red. Kites in the sky chasing sight-seeing biplanes and gliders. Entire families embroiled in full contact Frisbee battles. Every shape, size and color of sun-bather. This is the real deal!

Yet, South Beach does have its touches of gentility as well. The houses overlooking the sea from the far side of Atlantic Drive are nothing short of awe-inspiring. And the porta-potties are really first rate. These are not your run-of-the-mill construction site denizens. These beauties set the standard for functionality and cleanliness. (OK, maybe I’ve gone too far with that one.)

Actually, it’s the surf that does it for me. South Beach has the most awesome surf (or “waves of the sea” as my kids called them when they were little). I don’t even have to get in it. (Sometimes, I prefer not to!) I just have to watch it, breakers eternally rushing in then sliding back into their own oncoming successors. No, I just have to hear it. The crashing surf is a natural symphony to my ears, with its own fascinatin’ rhythm and melody. It’s truly a rhapsody in blue, green and many other hues as well.

So there you have it. Take your Lambert’s Cove and your wildlife refuges. The life at Katama is wild enough for me! Give me liberty or give me… Well, give me South Beach and I’ll be happy.

Image courtesy of Trustees of Reservations

 

Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown
Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard