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Written by Rick

The ocean is a marvelous place. It is literally a place of marvels. People travel from deep in the interior sections of a continent just to spend a few days in its proximity. As they near it, their hearts – if not their voices – resonate with that of William Clark who cried at his first sight of the Pacific, “Ocean in view! O! The joy!” We are willing to spend a massive premium for the privilege of an ocean vista, disregarding the dangers it poses.

It only takes a few minutes at the beach to realize that there is more to it than sand and water. Peter Kreeft, prolific author and professor of philosophy at Boston College, has caught this vision. He says that by God’s design, “the ocean is a perfect toy: always there, always willing to play with you, just dangerous enough to be exciting, never needing replacement, unbreakable, never boring, and you don’t even have to put it away when you’re finished playing with it. Watch how little kids treat it; they know what it’s for.”

Indeed, no one seems to appreciate the beach like a child. The little girl has no need of a “beach book” or a radio to pass the time. Her younger brother isn’t concerned with making a fashion statement or getting the perfect tan. The sand, shells, waves, sun, and breeze all provide more than enough distraction for the most innocent among us. And if they have the proper tools, who knows what imaginative creations they may construct in the sand?

My preferred portion of coastline on the Vineyard, in spite of its often overbearing crowds, is South Beach. The power of the surf there is humbling, more than once leaving me tumbling in its foamy aftermath. The shoreline goes on almost to the vanishing point in either direction. One can stroll its shifting sands in peace for hours. (In the absence of the breach, a stroll to Chappy is even a possibility, if a stretch physically.)

You never know what wonder you will encounter along that stretch of shoreline. There is a seemingly endless variety of birds to watch – some skittering in the shallow surf, some repeatedly diving headlong into the waves foraging for a meal. While lacking an abundance of shells, there are yet some prizes to be found for the diligent. Patience and a keen eye may also reward you with a rare seal or dolphin sighting.

Those who lug their laptops, cell phones and iPods to the beach will have their reward, I suppose. I prefer to follow the lead of the little ones. When it comes to the ocean, they know the magic it holds better than I do.

 

Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard
End Your Day with a Romantic Sunrise Cruise on Martha’s Vineyard Waters
Learn about Local History by Visiting a Martha’s Vineyard Museum or Landmark
How to Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Honeymoon at a Top Boutique Hotel
Enjoy a Night Out at Edgartown Bars
See It All: A Guide to Exploring Martha’s Vineyard Towns
Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall

There are plenty of sounds I associate with the Vineyard. A few are annoying (motorcycles without mufflers and loud cell phone conversations) but most are enticing: sea gulls calling, waves crashing on the shore, the bells of the Old Whaling Church peeling, and children laughing. And lest I forget, the call of, “Your table is ready!” at Sharky’s Cantina.

One of my favorite sounds is named after a sound that can’t be heard. Sound confusing?

The span of water separating Martha’s Vineyard from the Elizabeth Islands is called Vineyard Sound. When I hear that name, however, I think of the melodious tones of the a capella singing group of that name that graces the Island every summer with songs and good times.

Begun in 1992, The Vineyard Sound consists of a group of college students, changing each year, who summer on the Vineyard and literally sing for their suppers. The 2009 edition consists of ten gentlemen who will perform four nights a week at locations around the island.

I’ll never forget the first time I heard them. My wife and I were simply strolling the streets of Edgartown one sultry summer night back in 1994. In the distance we heard harmonizations that could be aptly described as enthralling. Up Water Street came the members of The Vineyard Sound like vocal Pied Pipers leading a large band of followers who had been caught up in their magical sounds. Soon we were among them.

The makeup of the group has metamorphosed many times over the years, but the quality and style remain consistently virtuosic. Each year, they manage to recruit an incredibly capable, charismatic crew of collegians. They sing classics and current tunes, both funky and funny. An evening with this troupe will have you laughing, toe-tapping, and maybe even joining in.

Warning: Take in a single concert and you’ll want to hear them again and again. Picking up one of their CD’s, always available at their shows, is a proven antidote to Vineyard Sound withdrawal!

Image courtesy of  The Vineyard Sound.

 

Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard
End Your Day with a Romantic Sunrise Cruise on Martha’s Vineyard Waters
Learn about Local History by Visiting a Martha’s Vineyard Museum or Landmark
How to Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Honeymoon at a Top Boutique Hotel
Enjoy a Night Out at Edgartown Bars
See It All: A Guide to Exploring Martha’s Vineyard Towns
Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall

I suppose everyone has their favorite Vineyard spot.  For some, it’s a place to appreciate the beauty of creation and be alone with their thoughts.  The less contemplative among us might, to lift a line from Ms. Lauper, “just wanna have fun” and so seek out a more active corner of the Island.  At the risk of exposing it to others, I’d like to share some thoughts on my special spot.

Down on Edgartown Harbor, behind a parking lot, a row of benches stand sentry on the dock.  Occupying one of those seats is, for me, the ultimate in Vineyard leisure.  Now, you wouldn’t think that a parking lot would lend itself to a relaxing respite.  However, with my back to the asphalt, facing the waters of Edgartown Harbor, I can forget what’s behind me… in more ways than one.

On my rude bench – though not so rude since the old corroding wooden benches were replaced – I lose myself in thought, soak up the sunshine, and absorb the ever-changing, diverting spectacle on the waters before me.

The sights are wonderful.  Launches come and go.  Ducks and even the odd swan swim up looking for handouts.  Mad Max sits patiently, riding the swells while awaiting its next set of patrons.  The On Time ferry does its curious commute from Edgartown to Chappy and back, all the while fighting the current created by the breach at Norton’s Point.  Sunshine sets fire to the restless harbor waters making them look like a troupe of dancing diamonds.

One of the most spellbinding sights I’ve encountered was a seagull cracking open a crab shell by dropping it over and over from high in the air onto the dock until the meat was easily accessible.  He earned that meal.

While the view alone is sufficient to stimulate my reverie, all my senses are involved.  The calls of the birds ring over the slapping of the waves against the seawall.  The aroma of fare being cooked up at a local eatery wafts over the scent of seawater.  The feeling of the hot sun on my skin is relieved by a cool breeze off the water.

To satisfy the taste sensation, however, I have to take matters into my own hands.  Thankfully, the wondrous Ice Cream & Candy Bazaar (an institution worthy of its own blog entry!) is conveniently located directly on the dock.  The picture is thus made perfect with an ice cream treat, a bag of penny candy, or – my personal favorite – a mix of chocolate covered pretzels and cookie dough.

And I don’t even have to drop it on the dock to get at it!

Image courtesy of Chris Vandyck

 

Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard
End Your Day with a Romantic Sunrise Cruise on Martha’s Vineyard Waters
Learn about Local History by Visiting a Martha’s Vineyard Museum or Landmark
How to Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Honeymoon at a Top Boutique Hotel
Enjoy a Night Out at Edgartown Bars
See It All: A Guide to Exploring Martha’s Vineyard Towns
Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall

To paraphrase a well known bumper sticker, “A bad day on the Vineyard is better than a good day at work.” We would only be exaggerating a little if we were to expand that to say better than a good day almost anywhere else!

 

Allowing the possibility that there really is such a thing as a bad day on Martha’s Vineyard, what would it look like? Among the things that could diminish one’s enjoyment of the island are low temperatures, driving rain, and lack of sunshine. What to do on those rare days when outside activities are not in the cards?

 

At home at the Edgartown Residence Club, there is always the option of curling up in front of the fire with a good book, good movie, or good friend. (A glass of wine or mug of hot chocolate wouldn’t hurt that scene either!) Bookstores, movie theaters and restaurants are possible choices as well.

 

Still, for a different kind of distraction on those days when you want to get out but “out” is not a friendly place to be weather-wise, my family likes to head to the Martha’s Vineyard Glassworks.

Located on State Road in West Tisbury, Martha’s Vineyard Glassworks is a combination art studio, museum, gallery, and craft shop, as well as a unique learning experience. And on a raw day, the heat emanating from the red hot ovens makes the place an oasis of warmth not to be missed.

 

There are two parts to the Martha’s Vineyard Glassworks experience. First are the pieces themselves. Two floors of unique and creative glass art will give you all the browsing pleasure you could possibly ask for. From jewelry to vases, from bowls to decorative pieces, there are items to suit everyone’s tastes, all beautifully realized.

 

The real draw of the rustic studio, however, is the opportunity to watch master glassblowers at work. While you look on, a simple lump of glass is transformed into a work of art. Whether a glass, a bowl, or even a Christmas ornament, you will experience a thing of beauty in the process of creation. The skilled and friendly craftsmen (craftspeople?) are also more than happy to explain what they are doing and why at each step of the process.

 

Kids and adults will all find themselves entranced by the process. Watching these masters at work – tossing the pieces and their working tools around with incredible deftness – is not unlike being in the audience at a magic show. Indeed, they do make things of beauty appear right before your eyes.

 

Warning to parents of young children: Unless you want to learn first hand the meaning of the phrase “bull in a china shop,” keep your young ones well in hand during your visit. They will be entranced by the glassblowers but may not be careful with the finished products.

 

If you want to visit Martha’s Vineyard Glassworks, make sure you call ahead to find out when they are blowing glass. Their number is 508-693-6026. Also, visit their web site to see more about the business and the kinds of items they make and sell. Note that they are a seasonal business, generally open from early May to late October.

 

Image courtesy of Martha’s Vineyard Glass Works

 

Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard
End Your Day with a Romantic Sunrise Cruise on Martha’s Vineyard Waters
Learn about Local History by Visiting a Martha’s Vineyard Museum or Landmark
How to Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Honeymoon at a Top Boutique Hotel
Enjoy a Night Out at Edgartown Bars
See It All: A Guide to Exploring Martha’s Vineyard Towns
Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall