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Chappaquiddick

I suppose everyone has their favorite Vineyard spot.  For some, it’s a place to appreciate the beauty of creation and be alone with their thoughts.  The less contemplative among us might, to lift a line from Ms. Lauper, “just wanna have fun” and so seek out a more active corner of the Island.  At the risk of exposing it to others, I’d like to share some thoughts on my special spot.

Down on Edgartown Harbor, behind a parking lot, a row of benches stand sentry on the dock.  Occupying one of those seats is, for me, the ultimate in Vineyard leisure.  Now, you wouldn’t think that a parking lot would lend itself to a relaxing respite.  However, with my back to the asphalt, facing the waters of Edgartown Harbor, I can forget what’s behind me… in more ways than one.

On my rude bench – though not so rude since the old corroding wooden benches were replaced – I lose myself in thought, soak up the sunshine, and absorb the ever-changing, diverting spectacle on the waters before me.

The sights are wonderful.  Launches come and go.  Ducks and even the odd swan swim up looking for handouts.  Mad Max sits patiently, riding the swells while awaiting its next set of patrons.  The On Time ferry does its curious commute from Edgartown to Chappy and back, all the while fighting the current created by the breach at Norton’s Point.  Sunshine sets fire to the restless harbor waters making them look like a troupe of dancing diamonds.

One of the most spellbinding sights I’ve encountered was a seagull cracking open a crab shell by dropping it over and over from high in the air onto the dock until the meat was easily accessible.  He earned that meal.

While the view alone is sufficient to stimulate my reverie, all my senses are involved.  The calls of the birds ring over the slapping of the waves against the seawall.  The aroma of fare being cooked up at a local eatery wafts over the scent of seawater.  The feeling of the hot sun on my skin is relieved by a cool breeze off the water.

To satisfy the taste sensation, however, I have to take matters into my own hands.  Thankfully, the wondrous Ice Cream & Candy Bazaar (an institution worthy of its own blog entry!) is conveniently located directly on the dock.  The picture is thus made perfect with an ice cream treat, a bag of penny candy, or – my personal favorite – a mix of chocolate covered pretzels and cookie dough.

And I don’t even have to drop it on the dock to get at it!

Image courtesy of Chris Vandyck

 

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Martha’s Vineyard vs. Nantucket: Which One Comes Out on Top
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Fed up with the rain? Me too! I am hard-pressed to remember a spring so chilly and dank. Looking in my closet for yet another sweater to wear, I wonder if the sundresses and sandals will see the light of day this year. But then I gaze out my windows, and if I can force myself to focus beyond the moss growing on the deck railing, I can’t help but notice that the yard has rarely looked so lush and healthy. And so it is all over Martha’s Vineyard. So instead of moping around indoors, letting mildew accumulate behind your ears, pull on your wellingtons, grab an umbrella, spit back in Mother Nature’s face, and treat yourself to a Vineyard getaway to admire just what she has brought us.

Although I’d be flattered to have you drive by my modest plot of land and comment on how lovely the peonies and roses are, many more satisfying vistas are available to you. First, put yourself in nature’s beauty at the Polly Hill Arboretum in West Tisbury. Feeling gloomy while surrounded by 20 acres of magical plants, trees, and shrubs is nearly impossible. They are open daily from 9:30 AM to 4 PM, and offer tours at 2 PM.

For a peaceful afternoon, hop aboard the On Time Ferry in Edgartown and head to Chappaquiddick, where you will find Mytoi, a delightful Japanese-style garden nestled within an open pine forest. I guarantee you’ll feel your blood pressure drop while strolling around this gem of tranquility. It is open daily, sunrise to sunset.

And since you are already enjoying Chappy’s gifts, linger a little longer and visit the Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge or Wasque, both havens of indigenous seashore growths of the northeast. Just driving place to place, you will notice the extra lushness and height of the seagrass and bountiful white and magenta blooms weighing down the rosa rugosa.

By this time, you’ll be pretty damp and ready for a mug of hot cocoa or, better yet, a hot toddy. Park the car back in Edgartown, and on your stroll to the nearest pub, notice the profusion of cottage roses beginning to pop and the abundant, heavy buds on the hydrangeas that will follow close behind. Yes, it is going to be a gorgeous summer (eventually), and you will not only have cheered yourself up, but also have gotten a very special preview of what’s right around some dryer corner.

Image courtesy of The Trustees of Reservations

 

Go Exploring with the Best Martha’s Vineyard Tours
Treat Yourself to Fine Dining at the Top Edgartown Spots
Check Out Things to Do in Oak Bluffs on a Memorable Day Trip
Celebrate the Fourth of July with Martha’s Vineyard Events
Live like a New England Local This Spring
Martha’s Vineyard vs. Nantucket: Which One Comes Out on Top
Treat Yourself to Something New at Martha’s Vineyard Shops
A Guide to Martha’s Vineyard Weather through the Seasons