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Eating on Martha's Vineyard

I suppose everyone has their favorite Vineyard spot.  For some, it’s a place to appreciate the beauty of creation and be alone with their thoughts.  The less contemplative among us might, to lift a line from Ms. Lauper, “just wanna have fun” and so seek out a more active corner of the Island.  At the risk of exposing it to others, I’d like to share some thoughts on my special spot.

Down on Edgartown Harbor, behind a parking lot, a row of benches stand sentry on the dock.  Occupying one of those seats is, for me, the ultimate in Vineyard leisure.  Now, you wouldn’t think that a parking lot would lend itself to a relaxing respite.  However, with my back to the asphalt, facing the waters of Edgartown Harbor, I can forget what’s behind me… in more ways than one.

On my rude bench – though not so rude since the old corroding wooden benches were replaced – I lose myself in thought, soak up the sunshine, and absorb the ever-changing, diverting spectacle on the waters before me.

The sights are wonderful.  Launches come and go.  Ducks and even the odd swan swim up looking for handouts.  Mad Max sits patiently, riding the swells while awaiting its next set of patrons.  The On Time ferry does its curious commute from Edgartown to Chappy and back, all the while fighting the current created by the breach at Norton’s Point.  Sunshine sets fire to the restless harbor waters making them look like a troupe of dancing diamonds.

One of the most spellbinding sights I’ve encountered was a seagull cracking open a crab shell by dropping it over and over from high in the air onto the dock until the meat was easily accessible.  He earned that meal.

While the view alone is sufficient to stimulate my reverie, all my senses are involved.  The calls of the birds ring over the slapping of the waves against the seawall.  The aroma of fare being cooked up at a local eatery wafts over the scent of seawater.  The feeling of the hot sun on my skin is relieved by a cool breeze off the water.

To satisfy the taste sensation, however, I have to take matters into my own hands.  Thankfully, the wondrous Ice Cream & Candy Bazaar (an institution worthy of its own blog entry!) is conveniently located directly on the dock.  The picture is thus made perfect with an ice cream treat, a bag of penny candy, or – my personal favorite – a mix of chocolate covered pretzels and cookie dough.

And I don’t even have to drop it on the dock to get at it!

Image courtesy of Chris Vandyck

 

Explore Downtown Edgartown on Your Martha’s Vineyard Escape
Look at That: What to See in Martha’s Vineyard
Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown
4th-of-July-by-CitySteph
4th of July by City Steph

You can’t come to Martha’s Vineyard without noticing the vast number of different accents you encounter in your day – the girl at the coffee shop is Russian, the guy who drives the cab is from Bulgaria, your housekeeper is Jamaican and thishotel manager is Scottish. To many, it’s part of what makes the Vineyard so special – almost everyone is from somewhere else and bring with them their own traditions and perspectives while adopting a good measure of the local culture.

This weekend will be my 11th July 4th celebration – 10th on Martha’s Vineyard. In Scotland, holidays are still mostly the old Christian calendar holidays with a couple of ‘Bank Holidays’ thrown in (basically an administrative day off for the whole country), so I have come to love my American holidays – Memorial Day to celebrate those who protect and have protected, Labor Day for the workers, Thanksgiving reminds us all how lucky we are, but my favorite of all has to be 4th of July!

On my 1st July 4th on Martha’s Vineyard I was lucky enough to be swept up by my American colleague, “Let me show you all the fun of a real July 4th!” Well, I’m pretty game for an adventure, so I put myself in her hands and boy am I glad that I did!

The 1st stop was the lawn of the Old Whaling Church for a good old fashioned BBQ. Burgers, dogs with all the fixins’, kids screaming and laughing, parents chasing, grandparents sitting back and enjoying – good old family fun!

Down to North Water Street next for ice cream from my favorite spot, Mad Martha’s – voted the Best of the Vineyard for several years, and in the Top 10 in the USA Today a few years ago – it really is a fantastic place – cones, cups, sundaes, toppings – everything a dessert lover could wish for.

So, ice cream in one hand and flag in the other, we found a perch on the steps of theColonial Inn courtyard to watch the parade – and oh, what a parade it is! Having never seen a big city parade, my frame of reference is limited, but I am assured it is small town Americana at its best. The parade starts at 5ish (remember – you’re on Vineyard Time) and confuses many by looping through town in the opposite direction to the usual traffic flow. It starts at Edgartown Elementary School, takes a Left at Pease Point Way and loops behind the town center to head along North Water Street in the ‘opposite’ direction and then UP Main Street.

The Selectmen from all the towns lead off in antique vehicles, many local businesses decorate floats with many varied themes, lots of kids sports teams and other non-profits have tons of fun entertaining the crowds – skaters, dancers, musicians, gymnasts and many others besides. The towns’ fire trucks are decked out, the Island Veterans always get a huge cheer and imagine my surprise when a group of men in kilts and ladies in tartan processed by followed by a Bagpipe Band – did they do this just to make me feel a part of the fun? Alas no, it’s the local Scottish Society (although it sure did make it all feel a bit more familiar).

After the fun of the parade we took a break, enjoyed the great atmosphere in town and then headed up to Lighthouse Beach to stake out our spot for the fireworks. They are set off from a barge just off-shore of the Lighthouse, in the outer harbor, so the beach is really the best vantage point, although you can see them from other locations a bit farther out. They usually start around 8.30 – 9pm (once it’s dark enough) and the show never disappoints.

Who wouldn’t love this holiday!! The events continue this year, in the same way they did on my 1st year here – will we see you? What are you doing for the 4th?

 

Explore Downtown Edgartown on Your Martha’s Vineyard Escape
Look at That: What to See in Martha’s Vineyard
Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown

Martha’s Vineyard has a wide ranging menu of choices for fine food and drink that will delight the most discriminating palates.  Being a frugal mother of four, however, I rarely partake.  (After all, patience and table manners are not virtues often seen amongst the younger members of my brood).

I can’t blame it all on the kids, however.  I am torn by a proud, but confused heritage.  My Italian ancestry has resulted in an appreciation for superior fare that is difficult to ignore; but thanks to my mother’s Scottish roots, the one thing that I like better than a great meal is a great deal… hence why I don’t eat out often!   The Vineyard is not known for it’s inexpensive dining options (although they exist– more on this in future posts).  This is why I am excited and anxiously anticipating two upcoming events that will satisfy both of these competing instincts…

Martha’s Vineyard Restaurant Week is starting this Sunday.  It runs June 21-25 and 22 restaurants are participating by offering special 3 course menus priced from $25-$45.  There are some incredible restaurants involved, and the values are great!  If it is too late to make it for the fun this year, fear not…  this is scheduled to be an annual event!

If you are more of a long range planner, mark your calendar for the Martha’s Vineyard Food and Wine Festival the weekend of 10/16/09.  Opportunities will abound for learning about, as well as sampling, extraordinary dishes from talented chefs, and wines from all over the world.  So where’s the “deal”?  I’m glad you asked!  The Festival organizers are offering significant early bird discounts to anyone purchasing tickets to events before Sept. 1!  Check out the celebrities and schedule of events.  It’s going to be loads of delicious fun!  If you need overnight accommodations, the Colonial Inn is offeringMartha’s Vineyard Food & Wine Festival Packages.

I am already working on lining up a babysitter, so who knows?  Maybe I’ll see you there!

Image courtesy of Skype Nomad

 

Explore Downtown Edgartown on Your Martha’s Vineyard Escape
Look at That: What to See in Martha’s Vineyard
Why You Should Still Visit Martha’s Vineyard in the Winter
Spend a Day at a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank Property
Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Bachelorette Party
Where to See the Top Scenic Views on Martha’s Vineyard
Discover the Best Methods of Transportation on Martha’s Vineyard
Create the Ultimate Bucket List of Things to Do in Edgartown