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Archives for September 2009

Phil-LichtenhamOkay, art enthusiasts, now that we’ve exhausted Edgartown and Oak Bluffs, let’s move westward to Vineyard Haven, where we’ll find a different variety of galleries.  Main Street is definitely the place to be for Vineyard Haven art.  Please keep in mind that this post is the third in a series on Martha’s Vineyard art, and if you are interested in theEdgartown and Oak Bluff’s art districts you can find highlights in the previous articles.

Had I been a little more timely in getting this written, I would have started you off at #9 Main St., Vineyard Haven, where the Archeo Gallery spent the better part of the summer. Unfortunately, they have recently packed up and returned to their winter home in Florida. Should we be lucky enough to have them return in 2010, you will find that they are not what we generally think of when we think “art gallery.” Instead of walls lined with paintings, you’ll find a bountiful display of African rugs, furniture, art, masks, sculpture, and pottery. If you are looking for the truly unique piece for either yourself, or as a gift, this should not be missed.

Next, visit Kara Taylor Fine Art at #19 and take a deep, relaxing breath looking at her hauntingly serene, deep contrast paintings and photographs. It’s sort of like a slow walk in the woods on a beautiful fall day.

Now, stroll down the street and plan to spend more than a little time in the building that houses #s 54/56. On the street floor, you’ll find the Simon Gallery and Louisa Gould Gallery. What more can be said about Peter Simon’s incredible photography?  Everyone who buys his Vineyard Calendar every year raise your hand. I, myself, would be lost without it. Always breathtaking. Always a new vision and perspective of the island. And what adds a special dimension to this gallery is Peter’s lovely wife Ronni and her exquisite one-of-a-kind jewelry. You’ll have a hard time limiting your purchases.

Next door, the Louisa Gould Gallery is more traditional, but no less exciting. Here, you’ll find an eclectic display of landscapes, seascapes, still lifes, sculpture, jewelry, furniture, and Louisa’s lovely photography.

I know you’ll be a bit saturated with art by now, but it’s not time to get lazy. Climb the stairs and end your Vineyard Haven stroll at the Shaw Cramer Gallery. Here also is a collection of very unique contemporary fine crafts and paintings.

I’ll bet you think that I’ve exhausted the subject of Martha’s Vineyard galleries. Think again. Some of the best is yet to come. But the “stroll” is over. You’ll need to get out the bus tickets or the car keys. Coming soon: Destination art that’s worth the journey!

Image of metal nests by Phil Lichtenhan, available at Shaw Cramer Gallery

 

Plan a Visit to the Martha’s Vineyard Food and Wine Festival
Where to Get the Best Pizza on Martha’s Vineyard Near Edgartown
Explore Memorable Things to Do & See in West Tisbury
Spend a Day at the Manuel F. Correllus State Forest
See the Next Big Thing at a Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival
A Guide on How to Get to Martha’s Vineyard
A Look at the History of Our Edgartown Hotel
Celebrate the Season | A Guide to Christmas in Edgartown

alleysOne of the things I love about Martha’s Vineyard is the lack of chain stores and especially the dreaded “big box” shops.  Even better, the island is populated with little box stores.  My favorites as a class are the general stores.  They are definitely throwbacks to a bygone era.  Most Americans know them only from period TV shows and movies.  People on the Vineyard are blessed to know them first hand.    Here are my three favorites:

Though it doesn’t have “general” in its name, Chilmark Store has all the essential elements to deserve that appellation.  First of all, it’s at the heart of the community, barely a whelk shell’s throw from Beetlebung corner, the library and the community center.  (Just down the road from Chilmark Chocolates too, but that gets its own blog entry.)  It’s also a community billboard.  Every local event and business seems to be advertised via poster on the walls of the building.

Chilmark Store is all about the food.  Yes, there is a nominal selection of groceries and other sundries, but the pizza and sub counter is where the traffic is.  (It’s also in the parking lot, but that’s another story.)  Pick up a pizza or sub and settle on one of the rocking chairs on the porch.  You can also take your slice of pizza a short drive to Menemsha beach to watch the sunset.  Either way, you’ll fully comprehend the meaning of the Italian motto posted on the store’s porch: “Il dolce momento”, the sweet moment.

On the way to South Beach?  You’ll be passing another primo emporium, Katama General Store.  The operative word for this place is “eclectic”.  What they lack in quantity of selection, they make up for in variety.  Where else would you find frozen Eggo waffles in the same freezer as gelato and ketchup within an arm’s reach of organic local goods?  The most common products are the seemingly countless items emblazoned with the store’s ubiquitous crab logo.

After procuring all of your beach needs – chairs, umbrellas, and toys – from the shop’s ample selection, grab a drink and a snack and settle into one of the tables in the colorful flower garden (sunflowers, bachelor buttons, day lilies, and many more) out front.  When you finally make it to the beach, you’ll know you’ve made the most of your trip!

The granddaddy (or more accurately, great great granddaddy) of them all, however, is also the best of the bunch in this writer’s humble opinion.  Alley’s General Store in West Tisbury is so classic that it’s owned by the MV Preservation Trust.  At over a century and a half and still going strong, it’s not only the oldest retail establishment on the island, it’s quite possibly the coolest.  They proclaim themselves as “dealers in almost everything.”  My only quibble with that slogan is that I’m not convinced about the “almost” part.

Part hardware store, part post office, part tourist trap (not to mention grocery store, garden center, beach supply store, farm stand, news stand and a few other stands), Alley’s may not have everything, but it has everything you need and then some.  I’m talking mini-Ben and Jerry’s, imported Italian pasta, local artist CD’s, 3-D anatomic pig (or for the bovine-inclined, cow) puzzles…  You get the idea.  They have a lot more than you need.  The only thing Alley’s is short on is prepared food.  Not to worry.  You’ll find Garcia’s Bakery and Deli at “Back Alley’s”, the building at the rear of the parking lot.

Alley’s also has the most important feature for a general store: a front porch with seating, including a porch swing!  This place is more than a store, it’s a destination – one that’s worth the trip up-island.

Image of Alley’s General Store courtesty of MVOL.com

 

Plan a Visit to the Martha’s Vineyard Food and Wine Festival
Where to Get the Best Pizza on Martha’s Vineyard Near Edgartown
Explore Memorable Things to Do & See in West Tisbury
Spend a Day at the Manuel F. Correllus State Forest
See the Next Big Thing at a Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival
A Guide on How to Get to Martha’s Vineyard
A Look at the History of Our Edgartown Hotel
Celebrate the Season | A Guide to Christmas in Edgartown

sleepy-child

This article is not about something to do or see on the Island. I have no secret places to recommend, no hot spots that are ‘the place to be this week’. It is concerning a moment of crazy, random happenstance, an act of kindness from unseen strangers.

We are still in the experimental stages of crib to ‘big girl bed’ transfer with my daughter, Katerina, which means that every bedtime is a unique array of settling-down rituals. Like a sunset, no two bedtimes are alike. There are nights that she tumbles like a sack of potatoes into the bed and passes out instantly; and somewhere the attempts to get her to sleep rapidly approach ‘rigmarole’ levels: all singing, all dancing entertainment to no avail.

Sunday night, August 16th was such a night, with a dose of teething crabbies thrown in, just so I didn’t get too bored, apparently. She rolled and flopped, cried and called for momma, ignored my singing of ‘You are my Sunshine’ (which was, if I may say, not too shabby!) and finally ended up knocking herself in the head against the rail o’ protection.

I bit back what would be a useless ‘I told you so’ and scooped her up to soothe her. The shrieks drew momma back into the room and my wife and I BOTH sang to her while they sat in a chair near the window.

Then, from the street below, we heard voices.

We always hear people coming and going through the Edgartown downtown from our second floor window. Many times, it’s drunken revelers, or bands of running teens after a movie lets out, sometimes just the talk of folk passing by the windows of shops below.

This was different. A group of women was singing on the porch below us. Four or possibly five voices were singing ‘You are my Sunshine’. In harmony, even! I assume they heard the wailing of an anguished toddler and our desperate singing and were inspired.

My wife opened the window to listen to the song and my Little Fusspot, with a wide-eyed smile poked her face against the window frame and looked to the sidewalk. We could not see the chorus due to the awning below, but she still turned back to us and pointed. “Happys singing down there,” she said several times. During the rest of the song we could hear Katerina chuckling out the window. She called out a ‘Thank you’ or two, but I don’t think they heard us. A taxi appeared and they were gone. It calmed Kate right back into her bed and a sound sleep, tears forgotten and it was all we talked about the next day.

Anyone who lives and works on the Island during ‘the Season’ can tell you tales of woe and indignation, frustration and apathy. In the hotel industry, I interact with folk at all points on the mood spectrum. That evening was such a surprise to my wife and I that we still smile to think of it. It was, in a word, LOVELY!

TO: The Musical Ladies of Winter Street: Our hearty thanks for a wonderful and helpful surprise. You made it a very special bedtime for our Miss Crabby-Pants.

Image courtesy of Tina Keller

 

Plan a Visit to the Martha’s Vineyard Food and Wine Festival
Where to Get the Best Pizza on Martha’s Vineyard Near Edgartown
Explore Memorable Things to Do & See in West Tisbury
Spend a Day at the Manuel F. Correllus State Forest
See the Next Big Thing at a Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival
A Guide on How to Get to Martha’s Vineyard
A Look at the History of Our Edgartown Hotel
Celebrate the Season | A Guide to Christmas in Edgartown
Menemsha-Sunset-300x225
Sunset by Joanne Sardini

I often describe the arrival of summer on Martha’s Vineyard as the prospect of a visit from a favorite aunt – you can’t wait for them to arrive, but after 3 months, you’re ready for it to be over!  This year, I have mixed emotions about this.  Labor Day, the traditional ‘end’ of summer season on Martha’s Vineyard, is marked by crisp mornings and evenings with abundant sunshine throughout the day – in short a perfect weather end to a not so perfect weather summer.  This is where my problem lies – I feel like I just didn’t get enough summer in yet! And then I remember the sage advice I give to lots of vacationers – the best is yet to come – come back in September – it’s the BEST month!

September on the Vineyard is a very special experience.  Somehow everything is a little softer – the light is beautiful, especially in the early evenings, with some of the most amazing sunsets and sunrises I have every seen.  The visitors seem less rushed and harried and the workers are all happy to have “made it” to September with another summer season behind them.  Sure, weekends can still get a little crazy due to the booming Island wedding season but if you can come to Martha’s Vineyard mid-week in September you will surely be delighted.

It’s still warm enough to get to the beach without having to fight for a spot to lay your towel.  The water is warmed by those long summer days and is warmer now than through most of July so a swim is definitely not out of the question.  The air is dry enough that a long walk or bike ride is not hampered by that pesky humidity.  There are surprising bargains to be had as the stores sell off their merchandise at discounted prices to empty out for the next season and to top it off, dining is made easier by the dwindling crowds – no more 1 hour waits for a table – yippee!

If you are a visitor, undoubtedly the other great part about visiting in September is the cost.  At the Colonial Inn, there are some great mid-week special rates that extend through the fall that really help you stretch that dollar!

So summer need not end at Labor Day – come and play among the locals – do a survey among them and I promise that 95% will tell you that September is their favorite month – give it a go!

What else do you love about September?

 

Plan a Visit to the Martha’s Vineyard Food and Wine Festival
Where to Get the Best Pizza on Martha’s Vineyard Near Edgartown
Explore Memorable Things to Do & See in West Tisbury
Spend a Day at the Manuel F. Correllus State Forest
See the Next Big Thing at a Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival
A Guide on How to Get to Martha’s Vineyard
A Look at the History of Our Edgartown Hotel
Celebrate the Season | A Guide to Christmas in Edgartown

lobster-picnicThis post is the fourth and last in a series of posts that highlight some of the less expensive options for eating out on Martha’s Vineyard.  We (meaning the Vineyard) have gotten a lot of national and even world wide press lately, thanks to the First Family’s visit last week.  A lot of the press wrongly implies that this is a very “high end”, expensive place to vacation.  I have to agree that it CAN be, but you can vacation here at any price point.  If you missed the posts on eating out on a budget in EdgartownOak Bluffs, andVineyard Haven please check them out and add your favorite eateries to the comments.  I know there are other great Martha’s Vineyard restaurants that I’ve missed!  Now, it’s time to turn our focus to the beautiful scenery and delicious food options found “up-island”.

First, I should probably elaborate on the Island jargon.  Down-island is the term used to refer to the more populated and accessible towns of Edgartown, Oak Bluffs, and Vineyard Haven.  I use the term “up-island” to refer to everything else – i.e. the beautiful, smaller, and more remote areas of West Tisbury, Chilmark, Menemsha, and Aquinnah.  Officially, I suppose West Tisbury is more “mid-island”, but you get the idea!  Please keep in mind that once you have left the “down island” areas, there are less options and consequently slightly more expensive.  That being said there are definitely a few take-out style restaurants that I feel the need to highlight for your up-island enjoyment.

If you are looking for a place to stop along the way to “break up” the ride up-island, there are 2 great options along State Rd. for a quick coffee and pastry.  The Scottish Bake House and Fellas (across from the W.Tisbury Firehouse) are both popular stops with locals and known for their yummy offerings.  Fellas also has great sandwiches, so if you are in the neighborhood around lunchtime or planning ahead for a picnic you should keep them in mind!  If you find yourself driving up the West Tisbury Rd. instead, Garcias Bakery (behind Alley’s General Store) also has a great selection of sandwiches and is a convenient stop along the way.

Any trip “up island” should include a visit to Aquinnah to view the beautiful Gay Head clay cliffs & lighthouse.  If you crave nourishment while there, plan to stop by Dream Catcher for the most reasonably priced sandwiches and quick friendly service.

The quaint fishing village of Menemsha is a fashionable spot to go for beach picnics and a beautiful sunset.  Luckily, the small village has several options for great seafood take out (always less expensive than eating in).  As you enter Menemsha, you will see the popularHomeport restaurant on the water.  They offer a take out menu that includes the full selection of items for a New England clambake…  lobster, stuffed quahogs, clam chowder, corn on the cobb… you get the idea!  If you prefer your seafood fried, there is a fry shack on the way to the beach called The Bite that is the place to stop.  I have heard from several different sources that they have the “best fried clams on the island”.  As you wander down to the beach area, you will see Larsons Fish market on the harbor.  Since 1969, the Larson family has been serving fresh seafood (frequently right off the boat) and offering take-out seafood cooked to order (not to mention awesome clam chowder).   You can grab your favorite delicacies and enjoy them while sitting on the pier watching the fishing boats come and go.  It just doesn’t get any more “quintessential New England”!  One word of caution… if you don’t like seafood, you may have to go hungry!

Well those are my top recommendations for affordable dining up-island…   do you have an up-island favorite that I missed?

Image courtesy of tuppus.

 

Plan a Visit to the Martha’s Vineyard Food and Wine Festival
Where to Get the Best Pizza on Martha’s Vineyard Near Edgartown
Explore Memorable Things to Do & See in West Tisbury
Spend a Day at the Manuel F. Correllus State Forest
See the Next Big Thing at a Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival
A Guide on How to Get to Martha’s Vineyard
A Look at the History of Our Edgartown Hotel
Celebrate the Season | A Guide to Christmas in Edgartown