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Written by Joanne

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Sunset by Joanne Sardini

I often describe the arrival of summer on Martha’s Vineyard as the prospect of a visit from a favorite aunt – you can’t wait for them to arrive, but after 3 months, you’re ready for it to be over!  This year, I have mixed emotions about this.  Labor Day, the traditional ‘end’ of summer season on Martha’s Vineyard, is marked by crisp mornings and evenings with abundant sunshine throughout the day – in short a perfect weather end to a not so perfect weather summer.  This is where my problem lies – I feel like I just didn’t get enough summer in yet! And then I remember the sage advice I give to lots of vacationers – the best is yet to come – come back in September – it’s the BEST month!

September on the Vineyard is a very special experience.  Somehow everything is a little softer – the light is beautiful, especially in the early evenings, with some of the most amazing sunsets and sunrises I have every seen.  The visitors seem less rushed and harried and the workers are all happy to have “made it” to September with another summer season behind them.  Sure, weekends can still get a little crazy due to the booming Island wedding season but if you can come to Martha’s Vineyard mid-week in September you will surely be delighted.

It’s still warm enough to get to the beach without having to fight for a spot to lay your towel.  The water is warmed by those long summer days and is warmer now than through most of July so a swim is definitely not out of the question.  The air is dry enough that a long walk or bike ride is not hampered by that pesky humidity.  There are surprising bargains to be had as the stores sell off their merchandise at discounted prices to empty out for the next season and to top it off, dining is made easier by the dwindling crowds – no more 1 hour waits for a table – yippee!

If you are a visitor, undoubtedly the other great part about visiting in September is the cost.  At the Colonial Inn, there are some great mid-week special rates that extend through the fall that really help you stretch that dollar!

So summer need not end at Labor Day – come and play among the locals – do a survey among them and I promise that 95% will tell you that September is their favorite month – give it a go!

What else do you love about September?

 

Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard
End Your Day with a Romantic Sunrise Cruise on Martha’s Vineyard Waters
Learn about Local History by Visiting a Martha’s Vineyard Museum or Landmark
How to Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Honeymoon at a Top Boutique Hotel
Enjoy a Night Out at Edgartown Bars
See It All: A Guide to Exploring Martha’s Vineyard Towns
Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall

chescas1-150x150No one can come and stay at the Colonial Inn, or indeed in Edgartown, without knowing Chesca’s. This restaurant is an island institution and has built a very loyal following over its 16 years anchoring the porch of the Colonial Inn on North Water Street. ‘Urban Italian’ is how they describe the cuisine – to me that means lots of yummy pastas, great risotto, lots of fresh fish and seafood and a lot of other good stuff besides.

The atmosphere is always hopping – lots of activity and people having fun. They don’t take reservations unless there are 6 people or more, so don’t show up starving and expect to sit straight away – the average wait runs at about a half hour but this leaves time for a cold beverage in a rocking chair on the porch and some good old people watching time. In fact, most of the regulars feel a bit put out if they don’t have to wait as the waiting on the porch is all part of the experience.

At Chesca’s I’m a creature of habit – I know that there are many great items on the menu, but I have my favorites! (Full disclosure time – I work there as a hostess a few nights a week). They have many fantastic entrée options but I like to go the appetizer-salad-dessert route, otherwise I don’t have room for the dessert and it is not-to-be-missed (there are 10 to choose from – the most extensive list I’ve come across!).

I’m a sucker for the Mussels (with leeks, fennel, shallots and white wine) and I ALWAYS need extra bread to go with them to soak up all the delicious broth. Next, I go for the warm Goat Cheese Salad on baby spinach – toasted hazelnuts give it a bit of crunch and the raspberry lime vinaigrette is perfect. I said I always leave room for dessert and my favorite is the Snowball – vanilla bean ice cream, rolled in sponge cake crumbs, surrounded by caramel sauce and crumbled Chilmark Chocolate pieces – simple but DELICIOUS!!!!

If you just can’t get enough Chesca’s during your visit, you can now have the taste of Chesca’s at home all year. Chesca’s Kitchen Table sauces are available at the Farmers Market, Cronigs, Morning Glory Farm and other Island retailers as well as straight from the restaurant. The Thai Chili Glaze, House Balsamic Dressing and yummy Chocolate Sauce are all available to take back home. I use the chili glaze in lots of ways, not just on salmon – on fish, pork or chicken as a glaze, thinned out with some olive oil as a salad dressing or as a warm dipping sauce for egg rolls or other little hors d’oeuvres.

What’s your favorite dish at Chesca’s?

Image courtesy of Chesca’s.

 

Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard
End Your Day with a Romantic Sunrise Cruise on Martha’s Vineyard Waters
Learn about Local History by Visiting a Martha’s Vineyard Museum or Landmark
How to Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Honeymoon at a Top Boutique Hotel
Enjoy a Night Out at Edgartown Bars
See It All: A Guide to Exploring Martha’s Vineyard Towns
Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall
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Great Rock by Joanne Sardini

I already covered most of the Edgartown area beaches in an earlier post, so now to venture a little further afield…
I mentioned in my last post how fun State Beach is – lots of kids, lots of fun, great swimming. If you continue on Beach road to Oak Bluffs you will come across Inkwell Beach, just minutes from the downtown area. You will see lots of people swimming ‘laps’ between the 2 breakwaters every morning and it’s a great spot if you don’t have a car as it is easily accessible on the VTA bus route 13.

Between Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs, next to the drawbridge, is Eastville Beach. A small parking lot can take about 30 cars so it’s always pretty quiet and I love to sit and watch the ferries and other boats coming in and out of Vineyard Haven harbor – sometimes you can be lucky enough to see one of the Black Dog Tall Ships, the Shenandoah or the Alabama, in full sail – spectacular! You can take a ride on one of these beautiful ships, or just sit back and admire.

Head ‘Up-Island’ to the more rural areas of Martha’s Vineyard and public beaches are a little scarcer. Many of the beaches in this area are private or restricted access, so be careful not to wander where you may not be welcome. With that said, there are a few gems that cannot be left out…One of my favorite hidden gems is Great Rock Bight. Not the easiest beach to find, it is about 3.8 miles along North Road from the intersection with State Road. Parking is very limited so be prepared to get there early. The property is managed by the Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank and has a lovely walking trail which winds through scenic woodlands to the beach. Be aware that the stairs to the beach are very steep – it can be a tough climb back, so pack light! When you get to the beach you can’t miss the Great Rock about 20 feet off shore. Relax on the sandy stretch near the stairs, or wander along the rocky stretch to your left and discover rock ponds and hidden coves.

Another ‘Up-Island’ gem is Moshup Trail – featured on the Travel Channel as America’s best walking beach – this is another Land Bank property. Less than half a mile from the public parking and bus stop at Aquinnah, this stretch of Atlantic beach sits in the shadow of the Aquinnah Cliffs and Gay Head lighthouse. It takes a little effort to get to this out of the way location, but it is definitely worth it! Just don’t climb on the cliffs, they are a Nationally Protected Landmark and it is a Federal offence to climb on them or take a piece home. Enjoy the surf, the sand and have a roll in the clay mud – it is said to have restorative powers.

There are lots of other great spots – which one is your favorite?

 

Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard
End Your Day with a Romantic Sunrise Cruise on Martha’s Vineyard Waters
Learn about Local History by Visiting a Martha’s Vineyard Museum or Landmark
How to Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Honeymoon at a Top Boutique Hotel
Enjoy a Night Out at Edgartown Bars
See It All: A Guide to Exploring Martha’s Vineyard Towns
Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall
4th-of-July-by-CitySteph
4th of July by City Steph

You can’t come to Martha’s Vineyard without noticing the vast number of different accents you encounter in your day – the girl at the coffee shop is Russian, the guy who drives the cab is from Bulgaria, your housekeeper is Jamaican and thishotel manager is Scottish. To many, it’s part of what makes the Vineyard so special – almost everyone is from somewhere else and bring with them their own traditions and perspectives while adopting a good measure of the local culture.

This weekend will be my 11th July 4th celebration – 10th on Martha’s Vineyard. In Scotland, holidays are still mostly the old Christian calendar holidays with a couple of ‘Bank Holidays’ thrown in (basically an administrative day off for the whole country), so I have come to love my American holidays – Memorial Day to celebrate those who protect and have protected, Labor Day for the workers, Thanksgiving reminds us all how lucky we are, but my favorite of all has to be 4th of July!

On my 1st July 4th on Martha’s Vineyard I was lucky enough to be swept up by my American colleague, “Let me show you all the fun of a real July 4th!” Well, I’m pretty game for an adventure, so I put myself in her hands and boy am I glad that I did!

The 1st stop was the lawn of the Old Whaling Church for a good old fashioned BBQ. Burgers, dogs with all the fixins’, kids screaming and laughing, parents chasing, grandparents sitting back and enjoying – good old family fun!

Down to North Water Street next for ice cream from my favorite spot, Mad Martha’s – voted the Best of the Vineyard for several years, and in the Top 10 in the USA Today a few years ago – it really is a fantastic place – cones, cups, sundaes, toppings – everything a dessert lover could wish for.

So, ice cream in one hand and flag in the other, we found a perch on the steps of theColonial Inn courtyard to watch the parade – and oh, what a parade it is! Having never seen a big city parade, my frame of reference is limited, but I am assured it is small town Americana at its best. The parade starts at 5ish (remember – you’re on Vineyard Time) and confuses many by looping through town in the opposite direction to the usual traffic flow. It starts at Edgartown Elementary School, takes a Left at Pease Point Way and loops behind the town center to head along North Water Street in the ‘opposite’ direction and then UP Main Street.

The Selectmen from all the towns lead off in antique vehicles, many local businesses decorate floats with many varied themes, lots of kids sports teams and other non-profits have tons of fun entertaining the crowds – skaters, dancers, musicians, gymnasts and many others besides. The towns’ fire trucks are decked out, the Island Veterans always get a huge cheer and imagine my surprise when a group of men in kilts and ladies in tartan processed by followed by a Bagpipe Band – did they do this just to make me feel a part of the fun? Alas no, it’s the local Scottish Society (although it sure did make it all feel a bit more familiar).

After the fun of the parade we took a break, enjoyed the great atmosphere in town and then headed up to Lighthouse Beach to stake out our spot for the fireworks. They are set off from a barge just off-shore of the Lighthouse, in the outer harbor, so the beach is really the best vantage point, although you can see them from other locations a bit farther out. They usually start around 8.30 – 9pm (once it’s dark enough) and the show never disappoints.

Who wouldn’t love this holiday!! The events continue this year, in the same way they did on my 1st year here – will we see you? What are you doing for the 4th?

 

Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard
End Your Day with a Romantic Sunrise Cruise on Martha’s Vineyard Waters
Learn about Local History by Visiting a Martha’s Vineyard Museum or Landmark
How to Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Honeymoon at a Top Boutique Hotel
Enjoy a Night Out at Edgartown Bars
See It All: A Guide to Exploring Martha’s Vineyard Towns
Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall
Ferry-by-takomabibelot
Photo by takomabibelot

Over the past 10 years in the hotel industry on Martha’s Vineyard I have noticed a strange phenomenon.  Many, and I mean lots and lots and lots, of 1st time visitors coming to Martha’s Vineyard book their accommodations and THEN ask ‘How do I get there?’

The first few times I gave all the travel options (there are also lots and lots of these – I’ll get to them in a minute, bear with me), didn’t think about the question too much and went about my day, but after a while I began to wonder – why book a hotel room if you don’t know how you are getting there?  The answer is now totally obvious to me…because Martha’s Vineyard is such an awesome place to visit, that most folks are sooo excited about coming here, they’ll work on the details later.  Also, lots of people forget that we are an Island.  AND we don’t have a bridge.

So, I hear you say, How DO we get there?

Well, the 1st, and most frequently used option, is the Steamship Authority ferry service.  This service is the ONLY car ferry (although we suggest leaving it behind – gridlock on vacation isn’t fun !) and makes the 45 minute trip about 14 times a day.  It takes some really bad weather before these ferries are cancelled, so they are also the most reliable option and gives them their well deserved tag line of “The Lifeline to the Islands”.  More about them in another post.

There are also a number of other passenger only ferry services from New Bedford has year round service and there is seasonal service from Falmouth (to Oak Bluffs orEdgartown), Hyannis and Quonset Point, RI.

Another option is to fly directly to the island.  You can do this year round on Cape Air, or seasonally on US Airways.

So, you can see why it took a while to go through all these options with people on the phone – and with so many travel options, I can see why they didn’t plan their travel before they booked their rooms!

 

Spend a Day Exploring Chappaquiddick Island
Treat Yourself at the Best Ice Cream Spots in Martha’s Vineyard
End Your Day with a Romantic Sunrise Cruise on Martha’s Vineyard Waters
Learn about Local History by Visiting a Martha’s Vineyard Museum or Landmark
How to Plan the Perfect Martha’s Vineyard Honeymoon at a Top Boutique Hotel
Enjoy a Night Out at Edgartown Bars
See It All: A Guide to Exploring Martha’s Vineyard Towns
Make the Most Out of Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall